1. El Ateneo, Barrio Norte
If you’re tired of shopping and looking for a spoonful of culture, no bookworm’s tour of the city could be complete without a visit to the magnificent former theatre ‘El Teatro Gran Splendid’.
Step off the teaming pavements of Avenida Santa Fe and slip into the lofty grandeur of the fanciest book shop you’re ever likely to set foot in.

El Ateneo is one of the world's most spectacular bookshops (photo/Marc Rogers)
Cited by The Guardian as the second best bookshop in the world, it was originally opened in 1919.
Now bookshelves line the balconies and floor, where once the high society of Buenos Aires gathered to watch the likes of Carlos Gardel perform live on stage.
Venerable-looking gentlemen are settled in deep armchairs while tourists and porteños alike browse titles far below a domed ceiling, painted with cherubs and saints.
Having lost none of its glamour, the stage, flanked by deep burgundy curtains, is now home to a cafe. It is lively with friends drinking wine, earnest business meetings and gawping tourists while live tango music drifts overhead.
If you’re hungry you can order anything from tarragon chicken with pumpkin mash to a media luna, washed down with cafe cortado, champagne or whiskey depending on where the atmosphere takes you.
Should that be a little too conspicuous for you, tuck yourself away in one of the royal boxes, which are still lined with red velvet and gilded railings or on one of the many sofas.
And remember to close your mouth.
El Ateneo, Av. Santa Fe 1860, Monday-Friday 10am-7pm, Saturday 10am-5pm. Tel: 11 4813 6052
2. Eterna Cadencia Libros, Palermo Hollywood
Nudging shoulders with the chic restaurants, elegant window displays and the bustling bars of Palermo Hollywood, this libreria, with its dark wood panelling and low- slung gothic chandeliers is a tranquil place to spend an afternoon.
For those of you who want to break into Spanish language books gently, there is a rich selection of translated texts with everything from Alice in Wonderland to Sherlock Holmes.
Follow the spines back into the building past sections on politics, theatre and philosophy for books on cookery, Kandinsky, cinema and photography and a large cafe at the back.
The walls are papered with fly leaves and paintings while bizarre lanterns made of book pages are suspended from the ceiling.
Whether you settle down with a coffee and plate of galletitas or rest your book-browsing feet on the sofa, you will be left to your own devices unless you choose otherwise.
Eterna Cadencia, Honduras 5574. Open Monday-Friday 10am-9pm, weekends 11.30am-8pm. Tel 11 4774 4100
3. FEDRO, San Telmo
FEDRO is best represented by a formidable black cat called Morrissey who spends his days sprawled on the floor, listening to the beats of music and casting a lazy eye over the stacks of books in the shop.
With its streets packed with galleries, antique shops and one-off boutiques, San Telmo is not a barrio lacking in culture and yet this book shop, which celebrates its fifth birthday this November, manages to carve out its own niche.
Selling music at the back, books in every corner and art upstairs, FEDRO is light and airy with a split level mezzanine floor from which Morrissey holds court.
Hook out a book on anything from the history of South America to Marxist theory and plant yourself on one of the scrubbed wooden tables upstairs. The owners are incredibly helpful if you are looking for something in particular.
FEDRO, Carlos Calvo 578. Open Monday-Saturday 12-9pm. Tel: 11 4300 7551
4. Libros del Pasaje, Palermo Viejo
For a low-key haunt with good music and a relaxed vibe to idle away a few hours, check out this refuge for students and intellectuals near Plaza Serrano.
The cafe at the back of Libros del Pasaje is popular with locals and tourists alike
The area, thronged with chic boutiques, restaurants and craft shops attracts a lot of tourist foot traffic, but the clientele here are mostly
porteño.
At the back of the shop, the cafe is abuzz with conversation, clattering plates and the strains of anything from jazz to soul, rock and roll to blues.
It has a bohemian feel with the music, art and well-stocked bar as well as an indoor smoking area. The clientele is colourful, ranging from study groups to dates, solitary readers to couples meeting for a Quilmes after work.
This is the sort of place that you could sit unattended for half an hour until someone notices you, which may be a good or a bad thing, depending on whether you find the speed of table service in Argentina refreshing or vein-poppingly infuriating.
Tall book cases line the walls, and nimble shop assistants scale long wooden ladders to rifle through volumes on the top shelves while customers potter about below.
Everything from Harry Potter to Marquez, science fiction to cinema is piled in wooden carts, which are parked along the length of the shop.
If you aren’t ready for Borges, there is a wide selection of English-language books available as incongruous as names like Tom Clancy and F. Scott-Fitzgerald might look when a couple next to you are having a flamboyant exchange in castellano.
Libros del Pasaje, Thames 1726. Open Monday-Thursday 10am–10pm, Friday 11am-11pm, Saturday 2-10pm. Tel: 11 4833 6637
5. La Libre, San Telmo
This cool new kid on the block has been around for five months and specialises in literature and art, with regular book launches and live music events in the evenings.
The shelves are stacked with poetry, philosophy, plays and plenty more. For those of you who spent too many pesos on empanadas and post cards, there is a crate of second-hand books from $5 standing by the door.
The shop works with a lot of independent publishers and alternative producers, so expect to find a colourful assortment of items on display.
With a selection of comfortable sofas and armchairs upstairs, and coffee available, this is a very pleasant place to spend a quiet afternoon.
Internet connections are available and wi-fi is in the pipeline.
La Libre, Bolívar 646. Open Monday-Sunday 12-9pm. Tel: 11 4343 5328