Gallery Nights is an open tour that happens once a month around more than 60 galleries in Retiro and Recoleta. Starting from the British Arts Centre, you pick up a map, and head off into the night to find the galleries dotted around the vicinity. Recently this has expanded to now include a night in Palermo.
It started in 2001, and has been going on uninterrupted since then, displaying a changing selection of contemporary art. The aim of the project is to bring the artists’ creativity to the people.
The creators are quick to point out that it is not a guided tour, but the maps available in all participating galleries do suggest a circuit, and there are free minibuses circling constantly to help you along your way. Conferences in the British Arts Centre entail specialists talking about contemporary Argentine art and the works shown in some of the galleries.
What’s more, the whole evening is washed down with a glass of champagne courtesy of Chandon.
The Never-Ending Tour
I began the tour badly. I was unfortunate enough to be caught in one of the conferences for five minutes. The two specialists on-stage began their debate, with a series of slides and projections, and art-drawl in Spanish. Not being a fan of art-speak, I slid out and left the remaining three audience-members to enjoy the show.
Although it’s not a guided tour, there is an audio tour. ‘Lan’, the Chilean airline, invited me to ‘see and listen’ as I walked around the art galleries. Unfortunately, as I didn’t have any identification on me, I was unable to take advantage of this. But with their in-flight magazine Spanish-to-English translations in mind, perhaps that’s not a bad thing…
I am shunned
So off I set, map in hand, to find galleries 34, 35 and 37. No champagne left. But I got a free, prawn canapé. I also got some free dirty looks from a pin-stripped moustache and a disgruntled fur coat; I don’t think my ‘smart’ trainers really cut the mustard.
Nevertheless, art is for everyone! I studiously mused over the scribbles and edgy paintings with titles like ‘President Consumerism Kirchner’ and ‘an exploration of the existential conflict’. But despite it’s philosophical pretentions, art with a ticket on, with a price dangling from its frame, is just a product (and not a very cheap one either). I was not a potential buyer, I was not old enough, I was wearing trainers. Was this why I didn’t get any free champagne sponsored by Chandon?
I am stunned
But the art at Gallery Nights is good; there were some good local artists. I enjoyed seeing Pablo Bernasconi and his work on the Abuelas de Plaza de Mayo for example (some of his work is shown in the photos). He gained fame as an illustrator for Clarín, and has been published across the world in publications such as the Times and Rolling Stone. And then there was that delicious prawn canapé too.
I also enjoyed sweeping through the galleries and making farcical statements about the fragile nature of humanity and the defining role of the arts; and overhearing those statements made by others.
I am buttered
One woman told me: “I always come to these open evenings. The art is very good. I like to see the sophisticated culture for an evening with some free champagne.”
Which really seems to be the base of the issue: the free champagne. You’re being buttered up for a sale. And I think that is what the night is about really.
In conclusion, I would say that Gallery Nights is a great concept and serves a very good purpose, but not quite the one I was expecting. Which perhaps is my fault – after all, Recoleta and Retiro are the two wealthiest barrios in the capital, and very traditional to boot. Of course the average Gallery Nights spectator is a fur-wearing wallet, who wouldn’t give trainer-wearing me the time of day.
However, I would recommend Gallery Nights to those with an open purse looking to buy some contemporary art with a famous name.
I would not recommend Gallery Nights to students, backpackers, or anyone wearing trainers.
Gallery Nights begins at the British Arts Centre, Suipacha 1333, from 7pm, on the last Friday of every month in Retiro and Recoleta. It is run by Arte Al Día (visit www.artealdia.com for more information). There is also a Gallery Night in Palermo on Wednesday 3rd December.
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