Relaxing in the poolside hammock at La Cantera. (Photo Gracie Protopapas)

After walking hundreds of metres amidst thousands of photograph-fanatic-tourists at Iguazú Falls, the slowly swaying hammock beside the pool at La Cantera jungle lodge is the perfect solution.

Of course when in Argentina no trip is complete without seeing one of nature’s most amazing natural phenomenona, the Iguazú waterfalls. So when my parents came to visit I used their trip as an excuse to escape from the grimy streets of Buenos Aires to the lush green jungles of the province of Misiones. After scouring the internet for hours we finally decided to stay at La Cantera.

Built in 2009 the jungle lodge is still in pristine condition with beautiful wood buildings and a huge infinity pool. The reception is small but the staff were friendly and spoke fluent English, a relief for my non-Spanish speaking parents.

From the reception one of the first things visible is the large turquoise pool. Comfortable lounge chairs, perfect for tanning, surround the water and on the far side are two hammocks.

Although the pool is not heated, the warm temperature of the air makes the crisp cool water feel fantastic. The only downfall to the pool area is the deck.

The wood is painted a beautiful, deep red colour but as soon as it gets wet it stains anything it touches. At one point I though I had cut myself because I had what looked like blood all over my hands. This is a seriously big mistake for an area that is always wet.

Between the reception and the pool is the restaurant. My family and I decided to try it based on a recommendation from one of the other guests. We were not disappointed. Service was a little slow but the food was fantastic. We started with a leak and potato soup and an arrugula, Parmesan, and pear salad. The soup was delicious and the salad was crisp and refreshing. For the main course I had a roast pork chop with a mango and bacon salsa. The meat was cooked perfectly and the sweet mango slices accompanied the salty bacon pieces to make a mouth-watering salsa. After that feast we didn’t have room for dessert but from spying on other tables it looked pretty appetising.

The room we stayed in had modern furniture with large beds and very high ceilings. The walls were painted white to make the room appear even larger and the décor was jungle-meets-chic, with white linens accented by green and blue leaf patterns. Each room also had a screen porch with its own hammock.

The only problem was the bathroom walls. The walls were in fact not walls at all but fogged glass barriers with strips of translucent glass. I can understand the modern look they intended to achieve but I’d rather have my privacy.

Outside, the jungle was full of life and staying right in the midst of it was a nice retreat from the not-so-picturesque town Puerto Iguazú. Once while sitting by the pool we even had a toucan come and land on the tree right beside us.

Iguazu Falls from the upper trails (Photo Gracie Protopapas)

The tough part about the location is the commute. It is about 15 minutes from the airport, 15 minutes from the national park, and 10 minutes from the town. Although this means tranquility it also means money. Instead of using the hotel pick up service, hire a taxi for the weekend and agree on prices before you get in the car, this will at least save some money.

When the time came to pack up and leave I seriously considered asking the manager if they needed an extra staff member. La Cantera is the perfect getaway for families, friends, and couples. Despite a few quirks, it is a tranquil haven in the middle of the jungle.

Puerto Iguazu bus (Photo: Daniel Mitsuo)

A rainy day in Iguazu can feel like all your anticipated memories of waterfalls and rainbows have been put through a paper shredder. The town is hardly built for indoor fun, and even the locals will just give you a hopeless shrug when asked for activities aside from the cataratas. But there is an alternative to hostel sulking.

The Güira Oga (“House of the Birds” in native Guarani language) is a wildlife refuge neighbouring the falls, and catering to the animals surrounding them. Although the one-and-a-half-hour long tour is completely outdoors, a poncho and throwaway shoes make it possible in less than ideal climactic conditions.

Luckily for foreigners, the tour begins with logistics. The centre itself is an easy ten-minute, $2 bus ride from the town of Puerto Iguazu, and the guides are bilingual, speaking to both English and Spanish-language visitors throughout the stay. Tourists are ushered onto a tractor-pulled trailer that leads them into the jungle where the animals are kept.

Toucan at Güira Oga (Photo: Rodrigo Soldon)

Although the sanctuary’s brochures and website feature a variety of local fauna, the park’s name is the most telling of what you will see when visiting. The tour consists of about 90% birds, with a smattering of monkeys, small mammals, and the odd crocodile.

There was no leopard sighting on this particular excursion, despite its prevalence on promotional materials. This can be disappointing to those coming in expecting an exotic petting zoo, but guide Cintia Da Rosa reminds us that Güira Oga aims to be just a means to an ends for the housed animals.

“We try to set them free as soon as possible,” she said, driving home the concept that the space caters to its inhabitants, not its viewers.

Sadly, many will never get this opportunity, as they die within 24 hours of entering the refuge. Sadder, human activity is what populates the rehabilitation centre; most of the injured animals are victims of poachers, automobiles, or wildlife trafficking. In a recent case, several wild birds were confiscated from the Ezeiza Airport in Buenos Aires. Those that were not found dead were transported back to Güira Oga for rehabilitation.

Seeing the occupants in action at the park, however, helps you believe there is still good in the human species. Two vultures square off against each other, oblivious to their onlookers; several small birds flirt and chase one another around their cage; and all except one of the Capuchin monkeys cuddled and showed off for their viewers.

At another point, a lone, hairy brown bottom protrudes through the primate cage; motionless and despondent. “She’s not allowed in right now,” said De Rosa of the large female perched on top. Apparently, she had taken a liking to one of the males on the inside, and had become a nuisance.

Bird of prey at Güira Oga (Photo: Rodrigo Soldon)

The only animals on the tour that exhibit apparent adversity are a small group of birds of prey. Each is leashed to its own post; each stares straight ahead, scowling at the new batch of tourists.

De Rosa explains that the restraints are for the wellbeing of the birds, many of which would meet certain death in the wild. The creatures are undergoing a flying boot camp in how to live and feed again on their own. The Güira Oga staff even created their own ‘robo-prey’, a remote-controlled scampering rodent that helps the birds perfect their swoop.

The centre receives institutional support from the Félix de Azara Natural History Foundation and the Ministry of Ecology, but depends on each guest’s $40 contribution to maintain the project’s independence. The refuge additionally accepts volunteers, for those who prefer a more hands-on rehabilitation experience.

Visit the Güira Oga website for more information on visiting or volunteering.

Photo by David Partington

Escape the Iguazú crowds in an idyllic Misiones cabin.

When you visit a country, it’s a good idea to try to get some perspective. And unless you can bum a ride in President Kirchner’s helicopter, climbing a mountain is the best way.

A good place for this is Posada la Bonita, since a visit to Iguazú Falls is most likely part of your travel itinerary. Since everyone is looking to spend a few days amid butterflies, orchids and the majestic mist that rises from the bottom of the falls, it can sometimes be difficult to hear yourself think.

That is why escaping up into the forest may be the best way to get some peace – and some perspective.  

We travelled overnight from Buenos Aires to San Vicente – a 16-hour bus ride on coche-cama seats and with service of light meals, coffee, whisky and even champagne! In contrast to the noisy streets of Buenos Aires, it was calming to wake up with the bus cruising empty the highways of Misiones province with greenery on all sides.

On arrival in San Vicente a man in a pick-up truck met us for a transfer to Posada La Bonita, where we were to spend three nights staying in a well-prepped rustic cabin, full board.

It was soon apparent to us why this accommodation just let on a full-board basis, as the cabins of Posada La Bonita are a long way from anywhere at the end of an 18km dirt road. Unless you have your own transport, it is not easy to go anywhere else to eat.

No bother; the rolling green forest stretching from our window into the Brazilian distance coupled with hearty country food kept us happy and full.

Activities up on the hills are obviously leisurely; aside from wandering around by foot, horseback riding is a great way to get up and down. Make sure you pack that 500-page novel you’ve been meaning to read.

True to Argentine style, breakfast is coffee, freshly squeezed juice, and bread with preserves. Since there are only two cabins at the top of the hill we usually dined more or less alone. Fireplaces are kept alive in the winter to make nights more comfortable. Plus, the romantic glow makes the experience perfect for couples.

For more information on Posada La Bonita (in English and Spanish) for to www.posadalabonita.com.ar Cost is around $150 per person per day, plus drinks. You can take the bus from Buenos Aires to San Vicente and to Iguazú can be arranged by Franco Martini, the owner, at a cost of $100 each.