
La Compañia de Danza de las Trincheras performs 'Besos Robados' (Photo: Luciana Paduano)
Women in colourful dresses with flowers in their hair dance with straight-backed men in traditional costumes. As they whirl past one other across the stage, eyes look into eyes; snippets of Neruda’s sonnet ‘Me gusta cuando callas’ are spoken aloud; love saturates the smallest of gestures. Suddenly, under deep blue lights, one couple finds itself alone. They dance a tremendously sexy tango, violent and passionate; not a movement lacks significance. Dreamily, they part. Then, the woman receives a letter; she is devastated. Pleading, she confronts the man in a bar. The man leaves with another woman on his arm.
‘Besos Robados’, performed by the Compañía de Danza de las Trincheras, is the type of spectacularly choreographed ballet you might catch with luck on Avenida Corrientes, or in one of the more innovative spaces on the Abasto theatre circuit. But the folk influence here is stronger than in most of the works shown in those locations. And rather than being independently staged or privately funded, the ballet was commissioned and sponsored by the La Unión Obrera de la Construcción de la República Argentina (UOCRA) – in other words, the construction workers’ union.
The link isn’t as arbitrary as it might appear. In a city as saturated with both politics and art as Buenos Aires, the relationship between trade unions and artistic groups is arguably a natural one. Several of the workers’ trade unions have a cultural subsection devoted to promoting popular culture. UOCRA, for instance, contracts with local groups to stage artistic performances two or three times a week for workers, their families, and the larger public; the charge is either $2 (a nominal fee) or free entrance.
Deeper motives exist than convenience, however. Workers’ unions and traditional cultural groups share a general set of values. They both oppose unchecked capitalistic thinking; they both advocate activity that transcends mere profit; and they both prioritize man’s creative, productive capacities. Indeed, according to its website, the UOCRA cultural programme exists for the very reason that “Culture and Work are the two fundamental tools in the life of a man.”
Development in Work and Art
How do these aims translate into practice?
In Buenos Aires, the bosses of UOCRA are colloquially referred to as “Los gordos“, the nickname referencing both the union’s size (nearly 360,000 members) and its political power in carrying through its demands. But dedication to art hasn’t always been one of UOCRA’s explicit priorities – or even one near the top of the list. Though the union has existed since 1944, it wasn’t until 15 years ago that the union’s cultural subsection, Fundación UOCRA, was set up by president Gerardo Martinez, nor until 2007 that UOCRA Cultura was carved out from within the foundation and given its own location.

Art is even infused into the training of builders through UOCRA.
With so little history behind it, the foundation is still trying to determine its exact direction and future activities. Under the umbrella aim of worker development, it has moved so far in two broad directions. Its first objective is “formación para el trabajo”—the development of technical skills, including training and certification. (In 2010 around 150,000 workers attended at least one of the classes.) The second objective is “formación para la vida”—the development of the personal-artistic lives of workers.
The theatre at Rawson 54, where ‘Besos Robados’ was staged, was built in view of the second objective. Inaugurated with a performance by Argentine folkloric guitarist Juan Falú, carpeted in red with rows of plush seats, it has proven hugely popular with both workers and the larger community. According to Marcelo Casartelli, who works at Fundación UOCRA, the events are relaxing occasions, with audience members often going out for a beer afterward, and are nearly always filled to capacity. A recent performance of the moving play ‘Los árboles mueren de pie’, starring well-known actress Beatriz Taibo (recognised for television and film roles as a seductive blonde, but here playing an elderly grandmother living out her last days with her husband) was sold out.
As you file out of the auditorium, you can take a look at the work by UOCRA-sponsored artists on display in the antechamber by the elevator, mostly drawings and woodcuts. In general, though, it’s not static images but artistic performances – music, theatre, and dance – that find the most enthusiastic reception. In addition to the monthly programming, festivals of folkloric music like the ‘Día de la Madre Obrera en la Pampa’ are put on in the provinces; two discs of music have also been released, with benefits going to the children’s association Fundación Constuir Futuro.
“Argentina has a strong tradition of popular and folkloric culture, which we’re trying to engage with actively,” said Gaston Barral, director of UOCRA Cultura. The idea is that it’s not detached analysis, but live action, that matters – not self-conscious control over medium and form, but organic synthesis with society and its sources of culture.
It’s worth noting, too, that the proud emphasis on “popular”, repeated in the promotional materials and in the words of all those I spoke with, reflects something of a sore point in the Buenos Aires cultural scene. Here, visual and conceptual art is often seen as the province of a westernised, largely privileged class exhibiting work in upmarket Recoleta and Palermo. To discover the genuinely popular inheritance, one must look elsewhere.
The Political Connection
The office of Fundación UOCRA, on the first floor of Azopardo 954 in San Telmo, is cozy, yet efficient. Young people, mostly twenty-somethings, sip instant coffee from plastic cups and reply to masses of emails. Clips from left-leaning Página/12 and Revista Barcelona, a weekly satirical publication focusing on politics, are tacked up on corkboards and scattered around the office.
When I ask Joaquin, one of the guys in the office, what he thinks of current president Cristina Fernández de Kirchner, he gives me the thumbs-up. “A lot of people our age support her,” he told me.
Traditionally, Fernández has had the support of both unions and the younger generation, with Kirchnerism, like Peronism, appealing explicitly to the well-being of the masses. As every Argentine knows, however, what that means in historical practice can be any number of things. With so many shades of political, the biggest challenge is often coordinating so many different groups into a popular front.
Cultural organisations and conferences on art thus serve an additional, practical purpose. According to Barral, trade organisations which might not agree on other subjects will meet to discuss the promotion of popular art – a relatively uncontroversial initiative.
One project the coalition of trade unions (Confederación General del Trabajo) is currently working on at the Mesa Intersindical de Cultura is the passage of a bill that will do for visual art what INCAA does for Argentine cinema. At Cine INCAA by Congreso, one can see an excellent film by a new director for $8; the institution bankrolls up-and-coming talents, promotes their work, and charges the public extremely low prices. A similar institution is lacking for other artistic forms – something the coalition hopes to fix.
An Ongoing Discussion
To discuss internal strategies, UOCRA has set up its own press, Aulas y Andamios Editora, which publishes books and pamphlets on educational development, sustainable practices, and other subjects. On the shelves of director Verónica Urbanitsch one can find the UOCRA-published book ‘El camino de los trabajadores: Vida cotidiana y saber obrero en la Modernidad’ (The Path of Workers: Worker Daily Life and Knowledge in Modern Times) – half a novel with workers as protagonists, half a history of syndicalism from medieval times to the present, in simple prose with glossary definitions in the sidebar.
The truth, though, is that these books don’t necessarily make for the most exhilarating reading. And UOCRA’s challenge is to connect with its constituent base of workers, something a pamphlet on collective negotiation won’t necessarily achieve. With that in mind, UOCRA set up a television network aimed at workers.

Construir TV stand at 'Batimat Expovivienda 2011'
From the start, Construir TV defined itself as a reaction to the current television channels on offer, controlled by large multinational corporations. Instead of merely entertaining, it sought to inform and to educate, resisting the idea of the passive subject who simply absorbs information (whether that be ‘Bailando por un sueño’ or government-controlled news programming), and the idea that man is simply an audience statistic.
These are lofty goals, but the results are often genuinely interesting. The shows range in seriousness from a historical look at the grand architectural works mankind has created, to interviews with builders in the street, to musical performances by workers playing drums with the buckets and paintbrushes that make up their livelihood, to tips on how to “construct” a fabulous asado.
The other major method used to communicate is Facebook. In the Latin American country with the third-highest percentage per population of Facebook users (after Brazil and Mexico), social networking provides an inexpensive and effective way to reach out to a working population that might not subscribe to glossy periodicals. “Good afternoon, I would like more information on the training of unemployed workers. The number of days per week and what days! Thanks!!?” one worker asks on the Facebook page. Another writes inquiring about tickets to the Sarlo play. Somebody in the UOCRA office types out reassuring, professional, informative responses to both.
The popularity of the options offered by the foundation in both professional development and artistic programming suggests that they have achieved success individually. Questions remain for UOCRA, however. Are the same types of people are attending both kinds of events? Is there a way to blend the two “formaciones” (towards “work” and “life”) – through more interactive art, say, or the further development of Construir TV? As the foundation continues to expand, the challenge will be how to maintain a balance between education and advocacy, and between cultural and professional development.
But if work and art have something else in common, it’s adaptation to given conditions. Pragmatism has been UOCRA’s calling card throughout its 68 years of existence. And part of the draw of art is that rather than dryly philosophising emotions, it acts out its subject matter. What that means more concretely for the future of the cultural organisation, then, is that – we’ll just have to see.