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Top 5 Things to Bring to Buenos Aires


Whether you are coming to Buenos Aires just to visit or to live here indefinitely, there are a few things to consider that will ease your transition. While exploring a new place is half, if not all, the fun, it’s always nice to have a rough guideline of what to expect.

Argentina’s capital is anomalous on many levels. It has a European laid-back vibe that is simultaneously mixed with new-world pulse. The denizens speak a distinct dialect of Spanish incomprehensible to most native speakers and they are also very proud of their history, culture, and good-looking people. At times, their pride can be a bit much, but once you see and read about the country, you would be proud, too.

Nevertheless, to help navigate the cultural idiosyncrasies of beautiful BA, we came up with five light items to pack into your bags to ensure that your stay or sojourn will go a little more smoothly.

1 An Open Mind – Things are different in Buenos Aires on every level: politically, socially and economically. For a long time, Argentina has tried to distinguish itself as different which means that, although the country tries to find inspiration from abroad, it has always put its own spin on things. Understand the local way of doing things is crucial when moving abroad.

Open Mind Graffiti (Photo: Dr Case)

Politically, most people are very aware and active, but one-on-one, you may find it hard for a porteño to open up to a stranger about his or her political viewpoint. Socially, if you become friends with Argentines, it is expected that you do things together. Most inclinations towards introversion may be seen as weird as this culture, which is, in general, is very social. Locals drink mate together, go to coffee and restaurants together, they go dancing in groups and anything that you have to say to one friend will be shared with everyone in the group.

When it comes to economics, the country has experienced its share of highs and lows throughout history. It makes it difficult for currency exchange, to get coins for the bus (though now you can use a transit card, which is also cheaper!), and sometimes the price of food will spike. Depending on who you are and when you come, you may be living the high life or be frequently frustrated. Either way, the best way to enjoy it is roll with it.

2 (A Savvy) Head on your Shoulders – Be sure to keep safety at the top of your priority list. The city is not explicitly dangerous, but it is fast-paced and a bit chaotic.

Transito in Buenos Aires can be difficult to navigate. (Photo: Adriana Sugimoto)

Whether you are driving, walking or riding a bicycle, make sure you keep a look out for bus mirrors zooming by your head and intersections that have no stop signs or traffic lights. A couple of times you may notice a vehicle flashing its lights at you, which usually means that it is coming through at pace and has no intention of stopping. As pedestrians do not have “right of way”, wait for a (big) gap to cross.

Dealing with it will help you discover an inner sense of patience that can only translate as grace. To become relaxed, or tranquilo, is something that is characteristic of the people here. Although they have their neuroses, most locals have a therapist to help them regain their chill.

3 Peripheral Vision – In a city that has beautiful people and amazing architecture (old and new), it is important to not forget about ground level obstacles.

Buenos Aires sidewalks need your full attention to navigate. (Photo: Francis Mariani)

The pavements are one of the most important things to watch out for. First, in the centre they are narrow and foot traffic is tight. This means that any previous levels of spatial awareness you may have had will need to be re-evaluated as you rub shoulders with the people. The pavements also are in need of heavy repair: stubbed toes are all too common from the protruding bricks and mortar on the ground, and broken tiles splash dirty street water up your legs after it rains. If you are wearing sandals or heels, make sure you bring a gazelle-like prance with you.

Another thing to watch out for when walking is the little doggy gifts, especially in the San Telmo region. A few years ago, the city released an ad campaign with hopes to educate the city-dwellers why it is wise to ‘poop-and-scoop’ and since then, the issue has improved. However, it’s still a reality so make sure you keep your eyes scanning, especially when wearing flip-flops.

Last, but not least, you need to have 360’ owl-vision is to prevent pick-pocketers from taking your goods, especially in busy areas and on public transport. This isn’t exclusive advice for Buenos Aires, but as most travellers know, do not carry important documents or a wad of money in obvious places on your person.

Keep your eyes peeled for “tricks” with mustard or small groups of people asking you questions. Even then, thieves will become creative and find other ways of getting into your bag. A friend sent a handy trick saying to line the inside opening of your bag with Velcro. It adds a second layer of protection and the “ripping” sound will frighten the thief off.

4 Castellano (Rioplatense) – This is the Rioplatense dialect described above that is specific to the city or Buenos Aires and surrounding areas (Uruguay has a similar dialect). Many Spanish classes and books may not prepare you for the few weeks that it will take to acclimatise to the nuances of the language here. The words are different, as well as the accent, tone and inflection. They call it castellano here (never ‘español‘) and sometimes it seems to be more like a mix between Spanish and Italian.

Porteños do not hide the fact that they speak a different language than much of Latin America, and are, in fact, proud of it. The people in Buenos Aires are well read and are very methodical when it comes to educating others. Sometimes, if you try to say a word, a helpful local will not only tell you the Argentine word for it, but also how to properly pronounce it. Even Spanish native speakers from other Latin countries have experienced this so do not feel like it is because you have a non-Latin accent. It’s cultural and, if you like the accent, you will appreciate the tutorship.

This might be a bit more duct tape than you need to bring with you. (Photo: woodleywonderworks)

5 Duct tape – This has no hidden or symbolic meaning but it is probably the smallest, most sensible, and economically efficient tangible thing you could bring. There are a lot of different things that are available when you travel or move to another country and that’s part of figuring the place out. The reality is things break, suitcases get ripped and duct tape is not easily available here.

It is the handiest thing to have as it is strong and waterproof, making it sticky gold for a country that is hard on your tools and when it rains, it pours. If your boots break, you can quick fix it with a piece of tape. If you need to construct a make-shift device to steam vegetables, you can rope together a few cooking devices.

Also, the buildings are beautiful here but they do not have drywall, which means you need a drill or very strong tape to tack things to the wall. This is where duct tape becomes a home’s best friend for the temporary home renovation or decoration.

Although these are not the only things to consider when getting mentally ready for an adventure in Argentina, they are practical philosophies that will go with you everywhere. Whether you decide to stay in the city, explore the country or venture home with some crazy stories, these five things will help you enjoy your time and the place with a little more ease.

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Top 5 Fishmongers


Ostramar in Palermo (Photo: Maia Worsnop)

When in Buenos Aires, it is good to do as the porteños do and order the renowned shoe-sized steak. After a couple of weeks of bife de chorizo though, you may want to consider something on the lighter side, like fish.

Fish is not hard to find here, but a good fishmonger can be and for a lot of reasons: first, the quality of beef is so good it’s addictive and sometimes creates a tunnel effect when purchasing groceries. Second, Buenos Aires sits on a river, not the ocean, which means a lot of seafood needs to come from a little further away (usually Mar del Plata). Third, the importation tax makes it expensive to sell a variety of slippery seafood.

For those that do eat fish, it´s the classic merluza all the way. Merluza (hake) is a type of fish that is related to haddock and cod. However, in recent years the over-exploitation of the Atlantic and Pacific dweller has not only raised concern about the species depletion, but also what kind of fish or seafood you will be able to catch next. So, as an alternative it’s really nice to explore the other options.

Although each neighbourhood boasts a couple of good locales, The Argentina Independent decided to look for a fishmonger in different neighbourhoods that sold something more than just merluza. Whether it be the vibe of the ‘monger’ or the wide array of products, the Top 5 fishmongers of Buenos Aires each have something special about them.

Mercado del Progreso in Caballito (Photo: Beatrice Murch)

La Marina

Situated in the Caballito neighbourhood is this funky fishmonger that has become a staple to Mercado del Progreso. When you walk into the large, indoor market and keep to the left, you see a colourful array of blues and oranges and a full spread of already prepared fish dishes. Alejandro  has worked as a fishmonger for 20 years, but has been with La Marina since 2008. He describes how he loves his job and that La Marina is special because, “it sells fish. No one sells fish”.

True, it is hard to find fish in the city, but what actually makes this place special is the people and conveniently pre-packaged product. The individually wrapped prepared lunches and dinners look delicious and they fly off the shelves. They also sell seafood pizza and bubbas (small kegs that hold five litres) of Heineken.

Address: Centenera 141

Website: http://www.mercadodelprogreso.com.ar/puesto_detalle.php?id=7

Contact: 4901-7140

El Defin in Barracas (Photo: Maia Worsnop)

El Delfín

This fish-market hub is nestled in the humble neighbourhood of Barracas, but you can’t miss its aqua-marine thematic exterior. Inside the Azara and Gualeguay corner shop are fresh slabs of fleshy fish. It’s clean, it’s tidy and most importantly, the fishmongers know their stuff.

Marcos has been working at the corner store for only two years, yet when he speaks about the product they carry, his eyes light up and tells me to follow him around the displays, pointing at various sea meats you may not have heard of.

When talking with Marcos, he explained how the family came from Italy in the 1950s and eventually set up shop in 1965. They carry a colourful variety of fish and are incredibly friendly but what makes this place a bit different is the salad bar – tuna tarts and cheesey-salmon tartar tortes galore. They even have a large stock of frozen salmon burger patties, which is a nice change from the usual beef stack.

Address: Azara 99

Website: http://www.e-eldelfin.com.ar/

Contact: 4361-0506

Casa China in Barrio Chino (Photo: Maia Worsnop)

Casa China

Not only is it a great excuse to get to barrio chino, where you can find nearly everything, but watching the fishmongers hustle in the back of this supermarket is impressive. One of the fishmongers, Alberto, says that business is good and that more people are eating fish nowadays. “It’s healthier,” he says. “And it’s always good to have a different option to meat.”

Among rows of ice and and sea shells, it is obvious that they have more options than merluza. White salmon, oysters, snails, crab, calamari in all sorts of cuts and sizes and, most rare in the city, sushi-grade pink salmon (although, like most of the salmon in the city, it is from Chile). You can buy a slab to take home with you or purchase a pre-made roll that they make in-house.

Address: Arribeños 2257

San Antonio in Recoleta (Photo: Maia Worsnop)

Pescadería San Antonio

You may almost walk by this fishmonger as it’s a small, family-run shop nestled in Recoleta. It has a familiar ambience and when you talk to the fishmonger, Mariano, you realise that it’s because his family came from Italy in the 1950s and opened up the shop a couple of decades ago.

This place has a slower pace and you can tell that it’s not about the amount of customers served but the care they put into the relationships. As Mariano pointed out, they have actually watched some of the children in the neighbourhood grow up on their food. Now, the family has added a second location in Palermo.

Because of its size, the selection is smaller but if you are looking for something decadent, you can pick up a small portion of merluza negra, which has a rich, fatty taste. It’s a pricey piece of fish, but in Mariano’s words, if you are going to celebrate something, this is the fish to do it with.

Address:

Rodriguez Peña 1534 (Recoleta)

Beruti 2922 (Palermo)

Website: http://www.sanantonioonline.com.ar/

Contact:

4811-3653/4813-4069 (Recoleta)

4822-8324/4827-5890 (Palermo)

Santa Ana in Almagro (Photo: Maia Worsnop)

Santa Anna

This shop on Jean Jaures has an old-school feel in the charming neighbourhood of Almagro. Maybe it’s the neighbourhood, where the stores are on the bottom, the apartments up top and where everything moves a little slower than downtown.

If you arrive at closing time, you will be impressed as everything is immaculately cleaned and there is no post-day funky fish smell. The employees are friendly and incredibly professional. They have a pretty good selection, but most impressive is the giant shrimp at decent prices. They also sell packets of different spices, just in case you run out or don’t have time to get to the corner store.

Address: Jean Jaures 927

Contact: 4961-0633

Posted in Food & Drink, Top 5Comments (0)


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