Ostramar in Palermo (Photo: Maia Worsnop)

When in Buenos Aires, it is good to do as the porteños do and order the renowned shoe-sized steak. After a couple of weeks of bife de chorizo though, you may want to consider something on the lighter side, like fish.

Fish is not hard to find here, but a good fishmonger can be and for a lot of reasons: first, the quality of beef is so good it’s addictive and sometimes creates a tunnel effect when purchasing groceries. Second, Buenos Aires sits on a river, not the ocean, which means a lot of seafood needs to come from a little further away (usually Mar del Plata). Third, the importation tax makes it expensive to sell a variety of slippery seafood.

For those that do eat fish, it´s the classic merluza all the way. Merluza (hake) is a type of fish that is related to haddock and cod. However, in recent years the over-exploitation of the Atlantic and Pacific dweller has not only raised concern about the species depletion, but also what kind of fish or seafood you will be able to catch next. So, as an alternative it’s really nice to explore the other options.

Although each neighbourhood boasts a couple of good locales, The Argentina Independent decided to look for a fishmonger in different neighbourhoods that sold something more than just merluza. Whether it be the vibe of the ‘monger’ or the wide array of products, the Top 5 fishmongers of Buenos Aires each have something special about them.

Mercado del Progreso in Caballito (Photo: Beatrice Murch)

La Marina

Situated in the Caballito neighbourhood is this funky fishmonger that has become a staple to Mercado del Progreso. When you walk into the large, indoor market and keep to the left, you see a colourful array of blues and oranges and a full spread of already prepared fish dishes. Alejandro  has worked as a fishmonger for 20 years, but has been with La Marina since 2008. He describes how he loves his job and that La Marina is special because, “it sells fish. No one sells fish”.

True, it is hard to find fish in the city, but what actually makes this place special is the people and conveniently pre-packaged product. The individually wrapped prepared lunches and dinners look delicious and they fly off the shelves. They also sell seafood pizza and bubbas (small kegs that hold five litres) of Heineken.

Address: Centenera 141

Website: http://www.mercadodelprogreso.com.ar/puesto_detalle.php?id=7

Contact: 4901-7140

El Defin in Barracas (Photo: Maia Worsnop)

El Delfín

This fish-market hub is nestled in the humble neighbourhood of Barracas, but you can’t miss its aqua-marine thematic exterior. Inside the Azara and Gualeguay corner shop are fresh slabs of fleshy fish. It’s clean, it’s tidy and most importantly, the fishmongers know their stuff.

Marcos has been working at the corner store for only two years, yet when he speaks about the product they carry, his eyes light up and tells me to follow him around the displays, pointing at various sea meats you may not have heard of.

When talking with Marcos, he explained how the family came from Italy in the 1950s and eventually set up shop in 1965. They carry a colourful variety of fish and are incredibly friendly but what makes this place a bit different is the salad bar – tuna tarts and cheesey-salmon tartar tortes galore. They even have a large stock of frozen salmon burger patties, which is a nice change from the usual beef stack.

Address: Azara 99

Website: http://www.e-eldelfin.com.ar/

Contact: 4361-0506

Casa China in Barrio Chino (Photo: Maia Worsnop)

Casa China

Not only is it a great excuse to get to barrio chino, where you can find nearly everything, but watching the fishmongers hustle in the back of this supermarket is impressive. One of the fishmongers, Alberto, says that business is good and that more people are eating fish nowadays. “It’s healthier,” he says. “And it’s always good to have a different option to meat.”

Among rows of ice and and sea shells, it is obvious that they have more options than merluza. White salmon, oysters, snails, crab, calamari in all sorts of cuts and sizes and, most rare in the city, sushi-grade pink salmon (although, like most of the salmon in the city, it is from Chile). You can buy a slab to take home with you or purchase a pre-made roll that they make in-house.

Address: Arribeños 2257

San Antonio in Recoleta (Photo: Maia Worsnop)

Pescadería San Antonio

You may almost walk by this fishmonger as it’s a small, family-run shop nestled in Recoleta. It has a familiar ambience and when you talk to the fishmonger, Mariano, you realise that it’s because his family came from Italy in the 1950s and opened up the shop a couple of decades ago.

This place has a slower pace and you can tell that it’s not about the amount of customers served but the care they put into the relationships. As Mariano pointed out, they have actually watched some of the children in the neighbourhood grow up on their food. Now, the family has added a second location in Palermo.

Because of its size, the selection is smaller but if you are looking for something decadent, you can pick up a small portion of merluza negra, which has a rich, fatty taste. It’s a pricey piece of fish, but in Mariano’s words, if you are going to celebrate something, this is the fish to do it with.

Address:

Rodriguez Peña 1534 (Recoleta)

Beruti 2922 (Palermo)

Website: http://www.sanantonioonline.com.ar/

Contact:

4811-3653/4813-4069 (Recoleta)

4822-8324/4827-5890 (Palermo)

Santa Ana in Almagro (Photo: Maia Worsnop)

Santa Anna

This shop on Jean Jaures has an old-school feel in the charming neighbourhood of Almagro. Maybe it’s the neighbourhood, where the stores are on the bottom, the apartments up top and where everything moves a little slower than downtown.

If you arrive at closing time, you will be impressed as everything is immaculately cleaned and there is no post-day funky fish smell. The employees are friendly and incredibly professional. They have a pretty good selection, but most impressive is the giant shrimp at decent prices. They also sell packets of different spices, just in case you run out or don’t have time to get to the corner store.

Address: Jean Jaures 927

Contact: 4961-0633

In a country famed for its succulent steaks, cracking pork chops and greasy panchos, who needs seafood in Buenos Aires? Contrary to popular thought the city is overrun with tasty dishes sourced from the sea. If you are looking for a lighter and more refreshing meal in the heat of the summer then here are a few delicious seafood restaurants that are a must-see.

Chan Chan (Photo: Kate Redburn)

1. Chan Chan, Monserrat

Authentically Peruvian, Chan Chan is the place to come if you are looking for a spicy and refreshing meal. Decorated wall to wall with eccentric murals of mountain landscapes and shelves adorned with religious idols, the restaurant has a vibrant atmosphere, everyone shouting to be heard over one another.

Serving up generous and inexpensive portions, the one-room restaurant has become incredibly popular, so you may have to wait for up to half an hour for a table. Offering only a modest range of beers and wines, the pisco sours are a winning alternative. The white fish is light and tasty but above all else the mixed ceviche is the key dish of the restaurant: flavoursome, fresh, and delicious. Try not to be too tempted by the baskets of bread, fried corn and spicy salsas while you wait for your food and save room for the ceviche. Highly recommended.

Open Tues-Sun, midday and at night. Prices from $20 for a main and $69 for a big ceviche to share. Do not accept cards. For more information, click here.

Cafe San Juan (Photo: Kate Redburn)

2. Cafe San Juan, San Telmo

Not typically known as a seafood restaurant, Cafe San Juan has a surprising amount of delicious fish dishes. Simply designed, the restaurant is laid out with an open kitchen where the diners can watch Chef Leandro Cristóbal at work. “The fish is as fresh and seasonable as we can get it,” he states, holding up a huge bright salmon to demonstrate the quality.

The menu changes frequently, depending on what Leandro can get hold of, and the staff are extremely knowledgeable, going into minute detail about each meal. On one visit the salmon was light and fragrant and the spicy fish curry was a welcome surprise, both portions being large enough to share. They hold a wide selection of wines, mainly stocking Argentine but with some French bottles in among them. With a laid back and warm atmosphere the restaurant has everything, and is not to be missed.

Open Tues-Sun, midday and night. Mains cost around $70. Do not accept cards. For more information click here.

Sipan (Photo: Kate Redburn)

3. Sipan, Centro

Celebrated as one of the best fusion restaurants in the city, Sipan combines traditional Peruvian and Japanese dishes. The menu successfully merges the two distinct styles of food offering both sushi and ceviche using exotic and unusual combinations. Elegantly designed, the restaurant reflects the food it serves: stylish, refreshing, and innovative, particularly the octopus and the shellfish.

The service is helpful and the atmosphere welcoming and energetic. The price range is a little steeper than others at around $130 for a meal, but the wine list is good along with the Pisco sours it is renowned for.

Open Mon-Sat, 12-4pm/8pm-midnight. Do not accept cards. For more information, click here.

Nemo (Photo: Kate Redburn)

4. Nemo, Palermo

In a cosy and atmospheric building, Nemo is tucked away in amongst the surrounding stylish and modern establishments. As a seafood restaurant, Nemo is to be taken more seriously than its name suggests: it provides a wide range of seafood including trout and shellfish risotto. Each of the fish can be served with a varied choice of dishes, for example potatoes, salad or stir-fried vegetables, and is prepared with whichever sauce takes your fancy.

The staff are friendly and helpful, the atmosphere is warm and comfortable, and the prices start at a very reasonable $35. All in all Nemos is a hit, even if it may take you a while to find it.

Open Mon-Sun, all day. For more information, click here.

Azul Profundo (Photo: Kate Redburn)

5. Azul Profundo, Retiro

Renowned in the city for its Sushi, Azul Profundo does not disappoint. Offering a range of traditional niguiri, sashimi, and maki rolls, the restaurant is a pleasant reminder that traditional sushi still exists in the city. The chain offers a range of either single style dishes or combination plates with enough variety to satisfy a big party.

The restaurant itself is modern, simple, and stylish, with surrounding fish tanks and blue walls decorated with fitting shark murals to give the sensation that you are submerged in amongst sealife. Although perhaps a little too dark, the atmosphere is cheerful and friendly. The staff are not well known for being attentive but the refreshing sushi makes up for what lacks in other areas. Prices range from between $13 for six typical maki rolls to $288 for a huge platter to share, so the food can be as reasonable or as extravagant as you choose. Azul Profundo also helpfully offers traditional meat dishes for those avoiding raw fish.

Open Mon-Fri, 12pm-4pm / 8pm-midnight, Sat and Sun 8pm-midnight. For more information click here

Photo courtesy of La Huella

Luckily for me I have been able to escape the sweaty ghost town that Buenos Aires becomes in January and hit the crowded beaches of Punta del Este. Well, of course I would never be seen dead in Punta itself, and keep very much to the far nicer area of José Ignacio a few kilometers down the coast. The little fishing village has seen plenty of restaurants come and go – Mallman’s Los Negros is no longer as he has moved in-land to the picturesque Garzon, Osaka last year lasted a mere handful of days – but Martin Pittaluga’s La Huella remains the crowd drawing ‘it’ beach restaurant again this year.

The international crowd flocked to La Huella over New Year and, not unfairly, the restaurant was compared to the legendary beach Club 55 of St. Tropez.  The menu at La Huella is simple, good food – fresh fish baked whole with a splattering of garlic and lemon, calamari and freshly made sushi. Of course, if you don’t book then you wait. And wait. And wait and then get very much burnt and peel unattractively for the rest of your holiday. For logistical reasons the restaurant closes from about 7-8.30pm as they change things around for the supper rush, but, not surprisingly, this seemed silly to many people trundling off the beach in search of a snack and a good caipirinha. 

We were lucky enough to shuffle off the beach in time for a gin and tonic and to order some calamari. Half an hour later and happily in laid-back, but hungry beach mode, my company asked where the calamari might be. “In the kitchen,” said the straight-faced waitress and swanned off. Pause. Hysterical laughter. Swig of g&t and the giggles died down. What an annoyingly brilliant answer! If only waiters all over the world could pull off a line like that and still get a tip. It probably wasn’t her fault that the calamari were delayed, more likely to be the fault of the kitchen. That’s where the calamari were and so that’s what she unapologetically told us. Punto. 

Photo courtesy of La Huella

The pizza in La Huella is thin and baked in their wood oven; it has perfect amounts of basil, cheese and tomato. The lamb melts in your mouth. The prawns come in their shells with garlic and chili, a cucumber salad and mango dressing – delicious and simple, perfectly cooked and fresh. The sushi is fantabulous – made at the bar and overseen by smiley Coco. The prices are reasonable for this uber-trendy corner of the world and the food is fresh, properly cooked and not fussy – ideal for lunch, snacks or supper by the beach. If you don’t have to wait in the burning sun because you are clever enough to have made a reservation, or you know someone, or you have booked upstairs then La Huella is great. Pancho Dotto and his models might be sprawled at a table next to an American divorcee heiress next to a young English couple and their babies. If you wait then get a large jug of fruity clericot, sit back and people gawp.

For more information, visit: www.paradorlahuella.com

Likely to be sitting next to – Who knows but it is fun to work out who they are, or who they think they are… 

My favorite dish – Calamari in the kitchen… 

Some people will love – The fact that they know someone, and so can get a table quickly without a booking.