Tango has taken the world for a twirl as dance festivals are erupting in major cities everywhere, from London and Berlin, to Kiev and Budapest. This year’s tango festival in Buenos Aires promises to draw crowds of international tango fans and dancers to the city, but many wonder whether the government is doing enough to invest in tango culture at the community level, and to preserve the spirit of ‘tango culture’ from the claws of the tourism industry.

We took to the street to ask what local people think of the complex relationship between tango tourism in the city.

Photos by Diego Cupolo

Melida Radian, 59, antiques vendor, La Plata

Tango is very important for culture and identity of Argentina. It’s important for tourism because people are interested in how to dance, how to do the things that we do. The government supports tango a lot. In the government house, they invite a lot of tango musicians when they hold events for others to show them a part of our culture. They already support and fund a lot of tango.

Eduardo Ruiz, 64 1/2, restorer, Caballito

 In the past, tango has been very important for Argentines. It’s our dance, it’s what tourists come to see, to dance. Tango is important first, because it was born here and, second, during the 1930s the dance developed to symbolise melancholy. It developed the meaning of tango and made it more dramatic, it’s very passionate. It’s also a political statement. It used to be prohibited by the military, but it rose from the lunfardo [porteño slang], from the streets.

This is what we share with the world when they come here to see Argentine culture. We don’t need more festivals for tango, though. Tango is not supposed to be a big deal, it’s quiet, the way it used to be. For me, we put on some music in the morning and sip some mate and that is tango. It’s much quieter.

Rafael de Elejalde, 29, sales, Córdoba

The dance is important for Argentina, for sure. I’m from Córdoba so we don’t have a tango culture like Buenos Aires does. If tourists are looking for tango they come to the city, but it is still very important for the country. The dance is good the way it is, too. It’s nice when it is not as commercial, when you can find it in different neighbourhoods or in smaller areas. When people come to learn tango, it’s better when they learn the classic tango, when it’s not as organised. Argentina doesn’t need more tango show business. It’s part of our identity and we are very proud of it.

Mica Piñero, 22, art student, Abasto

Tango is classic Argentina. I don’t know much about tango, but I know that it is important to us and to the country. I am not sure if more festivals or more funding would be better for tourism because people already come here for the dance, to learn the dance, to understand this part of our culture. I don’t dance tango but I have many friends that go to Catedral every week to dance. It’s what we do, and tourists come here to know more about it.

‘Pipo’ Gonzalez Varela, 55, leather-maker, Floresta

Tango is the most important part of the people’s culture in this country. The music, the dance, everything. Argentina is a very interesting country because it’s like you need to know tango to be Argentine. Even the younger generations are learning it. Tango espectáculo is a new tango and it has a lot of big moves and is very showy. There is a guy who sells albums of tango mixed with electronic music just down the street and it is very good, very beautiful music.

People come from all over the world to experience this and so government awards and funding is very important to keep supporting it. Right now there are not big festivals for tango, but later in time, who knows? Maybe it could be a big festival, like carnaval.

The conclusion of the 38th Congress of Tourism and Travel agencies, AAAVYT found that tourism to Argentina is rapidly declining. The country is becoming increasingly expensive with inflation adding to the international financial crisis.

According to the latest statistics, presented at the congress, the number of foreign tourists arriving in the city of Buenos Aires (by air) in the first four months of the year was 936,000 – 3.1% less than the same period a year ago. In April, the fall was 5.6%. The number of Brazilians, which have become the main source of tourists (30%), dropped 8.8% in April over a year ago.

Mario Lielman, chair of the Buenos Aires Tourism and Travel Agencies Association stated, “Inflation, even high, has not been enough to counter the appreciation of the Argentine peso and tourist think twice before planning a trip. Likewise for Argentines, a strong currency and more accessible prices in the US and Europe have become a magnet.”

Domestic flight costs are on the rise after an increase this week of between 10% and 20%, with longer distance flights rising by 30%. This is the case for sought after destinations such as Patagonia, Tierra del Fuego or Salta and the Iguazú falls.

These deterrents, combined with the ongoing financial crisis tightening belts globally, has worked to deal a significant blow to the Argentine tourism market.

That said, these same forces seem to be working to increase Argentine travel abroad. From April 2011 to April 2012, 31% more Argentines have travelled overseas.

An estimated 110,000 tourists visited Buenos Aires over the last long weekend to see the TC2000 last Sunday, according to the city’s Department of Tourism.

About 700,000 people were in the downtown streets to see the circuit, which shut down the centre for a couple of days. The track ran along Avenida 9 de Julio, Avenida Roque Sáenz Peña (Diagonal Norte) and Avenida de Mayo.

According to the survey, about 96,000 tourists stayed overnight in the city, spending a total of an estimated $28 million pesos.

“Thousands of tourists came to the City during the long weekend, leading to a very strong domestic market performance which is advantageous for the promotion of Buenos Aires this year. We strongly support the Super CT 2000 in the Province of Córdoba, and have a racing tradition in our country. The city also has other events on the calendar throughout 2012, including April’s Book Fair and La Noche en Vela, ” said Buenos Aires Minister of Culture and Tourism Hernán Lombardi.

Mariano Werner won first place, while Brazilian Cacá Bueno came in the second position.

The Argentine Ministry of Tourism is expecting more people to flock to carnival this weekend than ever before. They predict that two million people will travel to the festivities, spending an estimated $1,600m (US$ 366m).

Mar del Plata, Partido de La Costa and Patagonia are enjoying high levels of employment during carnival, providing the economy with a welcome boost.

Accommodation is at 80% capacity, and the peak periods are already fully booked.

It is reported that a record 2,400 buses will leave Retiro Bus station in Buenos Aires over the weekend to keep up with the exodus.

Town officials have praised Cristina Fernández de Kirchner’s move to extend the holiday by an extra day this year.

“The decision of the President (Cristina Fernández) to bring back the Carnival holidays will boost the economy and benefit all tourist towns in Argentina,” Juan Pablo de Jesús, the mayor of Partido de La Costa told news website Infobe.

A number of towns across Argentina – including Córdoba, Bariloche and Entre Rios – are also expecting a boost from tourism. This is despite a prediction of heavy rain and storms across the country, particularly in the capital and central provinces.

Buenos Aires and Mendoza have been signalled as dangerous areas, according to travel warnings issued by six countries.

Germany, France, Spain, the United Kingdom, the United States and Brazil, all speaking from government agencies, upped their warning levels for travellers after a series of violent crimes where foreigners were victims.

The US site says travellers should be cautious in areas like San Telmo and La Boca, adding that criminals work in groups, and people should assume they are armed.

“Street crime in the larger cities, especially greater Buenos Aires and Mendoza, is a problem for residents and visitors alike,” it states.

Meanwhile, the United Kingdom’s travel advice site warns its citizens that they should avoid protests and demonstrations.

“There have been an increasing number of protests against British interests in Argentina in the context of the higher profile being given to the Falkland Islands issue during 2012 – the 30th anniversary of the Falklands conflict,” it states.

Brazil’s Consulate General in Buenos Aires also recommends that people “avoid walking on the streets or in deserted places at night,” and suggests people phone taxis after 10pm rather than take one off the street.

On 8^th February, French tourist Laurent Schwebel was stabbed to death in broad daylight after a man tried to steal his camera near the Malvinas memorial in Retiro.

A Buenos Aires Pub Crawl staff member was also attacked 5^th February and almost died after having his neck cut open.

Last July, the bodies of two French tourists were found in San Lorenzó, in the province of Salta. Forensic experts determined that they had been sexually assaulted and shot.

Despite historic homicide rates, Honduras is experiencing an “excessive diffusion of negative news” and needs a committee to show the positive sides of crises, according to a former tourism minister from Costa Rica.

Carlos Roesch and José Miguel Gaitán – a former tourism minister from Guatemala – met Tuesday with Epaminondas Marinakys, the president of the National Chamber of Tourism of Honduras, according to a Honduras daily.

The Herald said business people and communications managers were also at the meeting, with the goal of providing suggestions to improving the country’s image worldwide.

“For every piece of negative news released, about 10 positive ones should be issued to create a culture of national identity and to position Honduras as one of the best tourist destinations in Central America,” Roesch said.

Murder rates

As officials discuss how to better promote Honduras, the development organisation Estado de la Nación released stats 3rd February showing that murder rates have climbed to 86 homicides per 100,000 people.

The country has the highest rates of homicide in Central America. In 2000, the murder rate was about 50 people per 100,000.

In addition, according to the report, more than 145,000 people were killed in Central America during the first decade of this millenium, equivalent to an average annual rate of 34 homicides per 100,000 inhabitants.

“Central America continues to be the most violent place in the world without armed conflict,” the report said.

As the most accessible glacier inside Argentina’s Los Glaciares National Park, the Perito Moreno glacier has become a big pull for the small town of El Calafate.

Many who visit do so expressly to see it, opting for a boat cruise which brings them face to face with the glacier where they can admire impressive ice formations and witness the occasional, magnificent shedding of huge chunks from the safety of the deck. The more adventurous choose to get up close and personal on the ice.

A stable ice mass, 5km wide and 60m tall, Perito Moreno is one of the few glaciers in the world to be still advancing in spite of global warming and one of few where ice trekking is a safe and viable option.

Between the months of September and April, Hielo y Aventura, the only company authorised to step foot on the ice, offers guided treks atop the glacier.

With no prior on ice trekking experience and no specialist equipment required besides a pair of crampons, ice trekking becomes a surprisingly accessible activity.

Demanding only a moderate level of fitness, the Mini Trekking and Big Ice excursions are open to everyone aged ten and upwards, with a maximum age of 65 years reduced to 50 for the longer trek.

The Mini Trekking option allows for a little over one and a half hours on the ice, and like the Big Ice and the Lago Rico sailing excursions, leaves El Calafate by bus and transports trekkers across Lago Argentina.

Once besides the ice, bilingual guides offer an introduction to the trek, explaining a little about the glacier and how the walk will be conducted, and then, two enthusiastic experts, followed by a group of up to 20 adventurous amateurs, take their first tentative steps on the ice.

From the outside, the glacier’s dagger-like edges make walking inside it appear impossible, but what the glacier opens up is a beautiful landscape of streams, small lagoons, gullies and bright blue crevasses where every ridge reveals an unexpected detail and a different view.

Once on the ice, a marked out trail steers clear of the trickier, steeper ice terrain so that hostile jagged cliffs turn to the safe gentle slopes ideal for novice ice-trekkers.

Filled with impressive photo opportunities, the route taken by the trek showcases the glacier in various shades of blue, and every so often a profound roar breaks a heavy silence as chunks of the glacier fall to meet their end in Lago Argentino.

The guides are eager to share their knowledge of glacial landforms, and happy to help out in the more difficult parts although the trek itself is moderate. Whilst the crampons are a little tricky to get used to, going uphill becomes easier than going down and being prepared with sunglasses, sun cream, waterproof clothing, removable layers, and some comfortable footwear will all help maintain comfort throughout the trek.

Along with the priceless panoramas, a complimentary alfajor and a glass of whisky, enjoyed literally “on ice”, can’t fail to top it off.

Yesterday, Emma Kelly, a 23 year-old Australian girl who had been disappeared for three days was found, badly beaten, in the hamlet of El Bolsón. She was half-naked and dehydrated.

Kelly told the prosecutor, Arrien Francisco, that her attacker had offered to help her climb up a shortcut, but when she refused, he hit her with a rock and pressed onto her neck until she passed out.

No one has been arrested as of yet but she has given details of her attacker. Kelly identifyed the perpetrator as a villager of around 30 years-old, from the neighbourhood of Mallín Ahogado.

Today, the victim will be identifying her attacker from a line-up. The victim’s parents arrive today from Perth to accompany her.

The news has shook El Bolsón, where national and international tourism is rife.

750 thousand argentines have been on holiday this bank holiday weekend.

This is an increase on the number of people going away last year, by 4%.

The Atlantic Coast has been particularly popular with Mar de Plata at 90% capacity, Cordoba is also a hot spot.

Iguazu Falls, after being chosen as one of the seven wonders of the world, attracted record numbers of visitors this weekend.

Oscar Ghezzi, president of the Argentine Tourist Board said: ”Every long weekend is a party for the whole country, 99.3% of argentines prefer to holiday here rather than go abroad”.

He was positive about the effects the high numbers of tourist will have on connecting industries such as gastronomy and leisure activities.

Waiting for the bus with FotoRuta (courtesy of FotoRuta)

“It’s like a treasure hunt but with pictures,” my friend explained. And whilst I’d absolutely no idea what to expect, I found myself standing in San Telmo on Saturday afternoon, a piece of paper in my hands, a number and a street name, searching for the meeting place.

If you’re looking for something different to do with your weekend, Foto Ruta is a prime option. From the postcard-style flyer promoting the event, there was one sentence that called my attention: “Foto Ruta BA offers an urban city tour with a twist. Bring Buenos Aires to life through a series of clues that lead you on a journey of discovery in a different part of the city each week.”

Perhaps this was the Indiana Jones adventure I’d always dreamed of, but more of a hipster version, and with a camera?

To begin, organisers Becky and Joss welcomed all of the participants around a table in one of San Telmo’s cosy cafés, and everyone was issued a ‘press pass’. Inside was a small map of San Telmo’s landmarks, quirky facts, interesting places to visit and several restaurant and café recommendations, as well as a list of creative tips on how to photograph.

After explaining the concept of the event – to explore the surrounding neighbourhood whilst interpreting a series of clues through photography – they ran through some creative techniques. Offering advice on how to use shade, lines, reflection, and movement, Becky and Joss described how to lend interesting effects to your photos, all the while projecting examples on to a white screen as visual aids.

At this point I looked around to see that everyone in the group shared my excitement to get outside and start taking pictures. Even with a digital compact like mine, you can make your shots appear professional with all the techniques made to seem fun and simple by the organisers. Or at least I’d like to think so!

Then we started to receive our instructions. We were going to work in groups to photograph an object or a scene that best portrayed each clue and return in two hours, which seemed like long enough. The clues, written inside the small poster with the map, came in the form of 10 sentences. “Mirror, mirror on the wall”, “the gift of time”, “door to another world” and “lawless fashion” were just some of the phrases open to artistic interpretation that day.

Dog's eye view (courtesy of FotoRuta)

I stepped out in a multinational group, made up of Irish, Brazilian, Dutch and British participants, and started photographing.

Foto Ruta invites you to think outside the box. It’s a great way of meeting new people from all over the world, as well as an opportunity to talk to locals as you try to persuade them to help you set a scene for your pictures!

We discovered several spots I’d never seen or heard of before; an open art and bookshop gallery, a prison museum, a store with furniture stuck to its walls and even gate-crashed a film shoot in a groovy record store.

When we’d finished, I felt like two hours wasn’t long enough, but we had to get back to the café where Becky and Joss welcomed us with wine. Reviewing our photos with glasses in hand, we picked the pictures we wanted to represent each clue, and each group’s photos were shared on the big screen for everyone to see.

Whilst the results were similar at times and strikingly different at others, they were overall, incredibly creative. It was amazing to see how each person interpreted the sentences so uniquely.

Between taking photographs, meeting people from all over the world, drinking wine and shared laughter, you can have a wonderful time doing something completely different on a Saturday afternoon.

One of the participants, Katie Jones said: “It was a really good alternative way to explore the city. Living and working in Buenos Aires makes it difficult to find time to explore neighbourhoods that maybe you thought were not as interesting. Foto Ruta encourages you to explore the city safely, without the hassle of searching for maps and doing research before hand.

I wasn’t expecting to learn so much about photography before I went”, she adds.

Another photographer, Andrew O’Driscoll admits he wasn’t expecting too much in the beginning, but after going out to the streets and photographing he said: “I enjoyed a fun day out and I think it’s the kind of activity everybody would have fun doing. It is a great way to discover Buenos Aires.”

Our tip? Go with comfortable shoes- you’ll do a lot of walking!