China plans to build an antenna for deep space observation in Neuquén province in the southern Patagonia region, Argentina’s foreign ministry announced on Wednesday.

Argentina has a long history of space exploration- the country’s National Space Activities Commission (CONAE), was founded in 1960 by Teofilo Tabanera. It has been concentrated on Earth Observation satellites since the 1990′s until more recent international partnerships.

A quiet branch of government, usually far from the public eye, is making international headlines due to this and other international space partnerships. CONAE is already working with NASA and the European Space Agency (ESA), but this partnership opens a new avenue for Argentine space exploration.

The agreement – between Argentina’s space agency and China’s Agency for the Control and Tracking of Satellites – also defines more general “parameters for establishing earth-based installations,” and creates a basis for future cooperation, the ministry said.

As reported in Clarin, Chinese scientists were in Argentina last month preforming preliminary studies in Neuquén, Río Negro, Mendoza, Catamarca, and La Rioja for the proposed antenna.

China is evolving rapidly as a world leader in space exploration. In 2011, it conducted 19 space launches, only 12 less than Russia that year and one more than the United States.

Chinese spacecraft have already orbited the moon, and the country has declared its intent to land an unmanned probe and possibly astronauts on the lunar surface.

In late June, China captured headlines across the world when three Chinese astronauts manually docked their Shenzhou-9 spacecraft with the orbiting Tiangong-1 module. In doing so, China became only the third nation besides the United States and Russia to accomplish this complex maneuver.

Argentina’s Foreign Ministry emphasised the antenna is “a project of tremendous importance,” which will permit Argentina “to develop interplanetary exploration activities, to study deep space and celestial bodies, to monitor and control satellites, and to acquire scientific data.”

In 2003 China became the third country to send a man into space with the Shenzhou-5 mission.

Argentina’s space programme is one of the most advanced in Latin America- Argentina being the first Latin American country to launch an indigenously built satellite.

In addition to the recent development with China, The ESA is now finishing construction of an antenna in Mendoza province, to support deep space exploration.

The 600-tonne dish, will complete the 360-degree deep space coverage needed to ensure full telecommunications during ESA missions and enhance the return of scientific data.

As we leave the harbour, I can’t help but think our boat is a little on the small side.

The feeling is only reinforced when I hear one, sighing from somewhere – it sounds like everywhere – beneath us. Soon afterwards, I’m looking it right in the eye, and if I’m not mistaken, it’s looking right back at me.

Aesthetically speaking, Argentina’s Patagonian coastline can’t compete with the enchanting lagoons and snow-capped scenery of the Andes. But the real draw is found offshore, feeding and breeding in the churning South Atlantic.

Every year, the UNESCO World Heritage site Península Valdés draws over 100,000 visitors looking for a glimpse of the exotic marine wildlife that migrates to this part of the world in the Southern Hemisphere spring. Immediately south of the peninsula, which protrudes like a kidney from Argentina’s eastern flank, Golfo Nuevo is a sheltered natural bay that holds one of the largest populations of Southern Right Whales in the world.

The whales are undoubtedly the main attraction, but our day trip from nearby Puerto Madryn begins with smaller, more manageable creatures. As our minibus bounces along dusty dirt tracks, we see some of the guanacos (think llamas) and rheas (think ostriches) that stalk the reserve’s 3,500kms. Sheep reared on local estancias graze where they can. It’s not long since breakfast, but the sight of our woolly friends gets me thinking about dinner – barbecued lamb is a local speciality and tender cuts are served in most Patagonian restaurants.

It’s when we get to Punta Cantor, on the east coast of the peninsula, that things take a turn for the bigger. They may not be quite as large as whales, but four-tonne elephant seals are nothing to sniff at – not that you’d want to with the pungent odour these beasts give off.

On the beach, three males are sprawled out along the sandy beach, each accompanied by up to a dozen females. These harems are the trophies for winning fierce territorial battles, and some alpha bulls can enjoy the services of over fifty concubines at a time.

“They are arranged like a buffet,” quips Valerie, our guide for the day, “for the orcas”. Península Valdés is one of the few places in the world where intelligent killer whales have learned how to pick off unsuspecting seal pups right from the beach. Photographers from all over the world camp out for months hoping to capture one of nature’s rarest predators in action. We’ve only got an hour, and despite spending it all willing the appearance of a dorsal fin, nothing happens.

The seals on the beach certainly don’t seem too worried as they scratch and yawn their way into the late afternoon. We find out later that this apathy is actually critical for survival: conserving energy is vital during the breeding season, when the fasting seals can lose up to a third of their body weight.

Whale Business

The highlight of the tour is saved for last, and the sun is dipping as we wait for our speedboat in Puerto Piramedes, the peninsula’s only inhabited town. We are briefed in disconcerting right whale dimensions: adult females can weigh up to 60 tonnes and reach over 15 metres in length, while males have the largest testicles in the animal kingdom (around 500kg each). Fortunately, we are assured, these are gentle giants, who almost never try to mate the boat.

We soon find out the whales are also curious: sightseeing boats are forbidden from getting too close to the whales, but no one can stop them approaching us. Out in the gulf, a pair glides by nonchalantly, taking a good look at us while spraying V-shaped fountains through their twin blowholes.

Their inquisitive nature is charming, but it didn’t always serve the right whales well. They are endangered animals, historically victims of extensive whaling due to their slow speed and generous blubber content (the name was given because this was the ‘right’ whale to be harpooning). In modern Argentina, they are considered a natural monument, and protected by law from the moment they enter the country’s territorial waters. The only attacks they face now come from flocks of seagulls jealously guarding the local fish supply.

Today’s whales seem to enjoy their privileged status, showing off with spectacular jumps and photogenic tail splashes. It’s chaos on the boat, as everyone tries to look in every direction at once, desperate not to miss any action.

It is only when one gets really close that a respectful silence falls over the group. Faced with such grandeur it’s impossible to think of anything to say, and those who try only spoil the magical moment. After 90 minutes, the captain turns us around and takes us back to port, accompanied for much of the way by one particularly playful whale.

Size Isn’t Everything

Peninsula Valdés is the obvious starting point for any trip to these parts, but it’s just a tiny patch on a rugged coastline full of wildlife watching opportunities. Our next stop is Rawson, the capital of Chubut Province and the first town to be established by 19th century Welsh pioneers. Here we board another boat, this time searching for Commerson’s dolphins. A patchwork of black and white, Commerson’s look a bit like small Orcas, and are the closest we get to the elusive beast. A fierce wind swirls and ominous rain clouds threaten, but the dolphins are delightful, ducking and weaving around the boats and surfing the bow wave.

Another 120km along the coast is the Punta Tombo reserve, home to the largest colony of Magellanic Penguins on the continent. Upwards of one million knee-high penguins nest here from September to April, braying like donkeys and filling the air thick with the smell of regurgitated fish. With their innocent faces and awkward Charlie Chaplin walk, these penguins are endlessly entertaining, though the park rangers warn that there is nothing funny about their sharp beaks.

On the way back to the car, we stop to allow a penguin to cross the path ahead. It pauses too, gives us a look, and then preens itself for several minutes while we wait.

Not for the first time this trip, it’s obvious who’s in charge here.

 

Congratulations and many thanks to everyone who participated in the Patagonia photography competition! We had many beautiful entries, but had to narrow it down to the top ten images. These stunning captures of Argentine and Chilean Patagonia have been uploaded to our Facebook page where you can vote for your favourites by liking the photos until the end of May when voting will be tallied.

The winner’s image will appear in our first print edition, due out in June. This competition has been generously sponsored by Patagonia Outdoor Clothing with a prize of a ‘Micro D’ lightweight, warm and fast-drying fleece, that works as either insulation or an outer layer – perfect for the cold months ahead! And, as an extra bonus, it is also environmentally friendly – made from 85% recycled fleece – Patagonia recycle used soda bottles, unusable second-hand quality fabrics and worn out garments into polyester fibres to produce many of their clothes.

The ten finalists will be invited to join our professional team of photographers in showing their photos at our next gallery night, due to take place in San Telmo mid-June.

We are calling for entries for our new photography competition, with the winner’s image appearing in our first print edition, due out in June. Sponsored by Patagonia Outdoor Clothing, we are asking contestants to send us their best shot of Patagonia by 20th May.

Beatrice Murch, The Indy’s head of photography, will then select the ten best images and the final judgement will go over to you, our readers, to vote via facebook during a two-week period.

The ten finalists will be invited to join our professional team of photographers in showing their photos at our next gallery night, due to take place in San Telmo mid-June.

Photographs may be taken on any type of camera but must have been taken in Argentine or Chilean Patagonia.

The prize, courtesy of Patagonia Outdoor Clothing, is a ‘Micro D’ lightweight, warm and fast-drying fleece, that works as either insulation or an outer layer – perfect for the cold months ahead! And, as an extra bonus, it is also environmentally friendly – made from 85% recycled fleece – Patagonia recycle used soda bottles, unusable second-hand quality fabrics and worn out garments into polyester fibres to produce many of their clothes.

Only one entry may be submitted per person and it must be accompanied by your full name and one line caption, giving background on the image – where and when it was taken, and what is being captured.

To enter, please email your photograph to competitions@argentinaindependent.com by 20th May.

Size your image to a maximum of 1024 pixels on the longest side before sending. The winner must be able to provide a high-resolution (300 dpi) version of the image for publication in print by 10th June.

For Peace of Mind:

The image entered and all rights to it must be your own. In submitting your photograph, you agree to The Argentina Independent’s non-exclusive use of your image on our website, newsletter and associated printed press.

You maintain full copyright to your photograph and, where used by The Argentina Independent, the photograph will be credited to you as the photographer, with a link to your online portfolio where applicable.

Mobilised representatives of the Chilean commune of Aysén sparked controversy yesterday by appealing to the Argentine government to “adopt” them.

Social representatives from the commune of Comodoro Rivadavia in Chubut province have been campaigning for social and economic improvements for the past week. The cost of living in the remote Patagonian region is far higher than in other parts of the country.

Around 2,000 people from the town of Aysén, representing a coalition of 25 groups, took to the streets to campaign for the reduction of the price of fuel in the region. This tenet is the first part of a 11-point petition which will be drafted by the activists.

“Argentina, adopt us” and “Aysén is also Chile” were displayed on their banners.

Soliciting annexation by Argentina has been considered a provocative act. It was aimed at raising the profile of their campaign and prompting a reaction from the Chilean state.

Local leaders continue to come to blows with the police in the city of Coyhaique. The health minster Jaime Mañalich and transport minister Pedro Pablo Errazuriz were sent as delegates to the area on Monday.

Protesters were disappointed by the low weight political officials they received. “The mobilisation will continue,” they said, until they are sent “people who are in charge of making official decisions.”

President Sebastián Piñera’s delegation also came under internal criticism.

“These people have grounds to be restless and we propose a more authoritative trip,” said senator Victor Perez, the secretary general of the Independent Democratic Union (UDI).

The comment was backed by a statement from the bishop of Aysén, Luis Infanti.

“These people are crying out for justice,” he said. “All the issues raised in the appeal is a reflection of the lack of attention from the state.”

The conflict, redolent of the uprising in the southern region of Aysén last year, has escalated to unprecedented levels.

As the most accessible glacier inside Argentina’s Los Glaciares National Park, the Perito Moreno glacier has become a big pull for the small town of El Calafate.

Many who visit do so expressly to see it, opting for a boat cruise which brings them face to face with the glacier where they can admire impressive ice formations and witness the occasional, magnificent shedding of huge chunks from the safety of the deck. The more adventurous choose to get up close and personal on the ice.

A stable ice mass, 5km wide and 60m tall, Perito Moreno is one of the few glaciers in the world to be still advancing in spite of global warming and one of few where ice trekking is a safe and viable option.

Between the months of September and April, Hielo y Aventura, the only company authorised to step foot on the ice, offers guided treks atop the glacier.

With no prior on ice trekking experience and no specialist equipment required besides a pair of crampons, ice trekking becomes a surprisingly accessible activity.

Demanding only a moderate level of fitness, the Mini Trekking and Big Ice excursions are open to everyone aged ten and upwards, with a maximum age of 65 years reduced to 50 for the longer trek.

The Mini Trekking option allows for a little over one and a half hours on the ice, and like the Big Ice and the Lago Rico sailing excursions, leaves El Calafate by bus and transports trekkers across Lago Argentina.

Once besides the ice, bilingual guides offer an introduction to the trek, explaining a little about the glacier and how the walk will be conducted, and then, two enthusiastic experts, followed by a group of up to 20 adventurous amateurs, take their first tentative steps on the ice.

From the outside, the glacier’s dagger-like edges make walking inside it appear impossible, but what the glacier opens up is a beautiful landscape of streams, small lagoons, gullies and bright blue crevasses where every ridge reveals an unexpected detail and a different view.

Once on the ice, a marked out trail steers clear of the trickier, steeper ice terrain so that hostile jagged cliffs turn to the safe gentle slopes ideal for novice ice-trekkers.

Filled with impressive photo opportunities, the route taken by the trek showcases the glacier in various shades of blue, and every so often a profound roar breaks a heavy silence as chunks of the glacier fall to meet their end in Lago Argentino.

The guides are eager to share their knowledge of glacial landforms, and happy to help out in the more difficult parts although the trek itself is moderate. Whilst the crampons are a little tricky to get used to, going uphill becomes easier than going down and being prepared with sunglasses, sun cream, waterproof clothing, removable layers, and some comfortable footwear will all help maintain comfort throughout the trek.

Along with the priceless panoramas, a complimentary alfajor and a glass of whisky, enjoyed literally “on ice”, can’t fail to top it off.

With the unexpected aroma of melting ice caps filling my nostrils, I inhale deeply. Frozen mountains exhale an earthy scent, and in the distance, Andean condors fly.

“Can you feel that?” he asks, taking the sample away so that I open my eyes. “That’s our ‘Lago Del Desierto’ fragrance. We’ve recreated the smell of the glaciers and the surrounding countryside of Argentine Patagonia.”

Instead of Patagonia, I find myself in a cosy plush room in Buenos Aires, with high black walls and velvet curtains, in the company of Julian Bedel, one of the creators of Fueguia perfume laboratory.

Filled with dozens of perfume bottles, scented candles and room essences, Fueguia feels mystic and mysterious. Located on the second floor of a beautiful 19th century building in Palermo Viejo, there are no signs, no logos; no indication at all that something special lies behind the door. The only one of its kind in the whole of America, Fueguia creates custom-blended fragrances from a growing range of over 600 individual ingredients.

A never-ending palette of scents awaits; from the more common mint, nutmeg and rosemary, to more obscure aromas like birch, juniper berries and tuberose, Fueguia also has a range of 18 ready-made blends, which just like ‘Lago Del Desierto’, are already utterly unique. ‘Corvina Negra’ with its animalistic and sub marine notes, translates the smells of the under water world so successfully it’s as though you’ve just eaten raw, live fish.

Another ready-made blend, ‘El Mono De La Tinta’, captures the smell of the ink used by 18th century Chinese calligraphers, which had such an alluring smell their pet monkeys would try to drink it. And the stories behind endless intricate fragrances keep flowing.

“The challenge is to go out of your comfort zone and blend scents that you would not expect, like that of coal and fish, and make it into something interesting,” says Julian. “It’s too easy to just mix floral scents.”

A musician and an artist as well as a perfumer, Julian talks about smells much like he would music or paintings. “I don’t imagine who’s going to be wearing it when I create a perfume”, he says. “I imagine scenery and I paint the landscape.” And with an aquiline nose and nostrils like caves, you’re assured his olfactory senses will recognise every subtlety of a fragrance.

With 1kg of rose centifolia extract costing a minimum of US$8,000, maintaining a laboratory with US$250,000 worth of ingredients requires some fine training and must be done by a connoisseur.

As just that, Julian travels all over the world to source the best extracts, which change every year depending on natural conditions. A particularly sunny or wet summer can affect ingredients, and the atoms of the essence expand or shrink according to the mixtures and solvents used, producing different results with every combination. It’s a balanced blend of science and art, all in one.

When I asked him if he ever felt like producing a fragrance that would make the whole world attracted to him, like the character Jean-Baptiste Grenuille did in Patrick Süskind’s novel ‘Perfume’, he shrugged and said: “No. He was essentially stealing young women’s scents, whereas I want to do the opposite – give a scent to people.”

So if you know someone who already has everything but lacks a unique scent, Fueguia can create the perfect personalised gift. Ready-made candles cost US$45 and perfumes US$75, with prices for customised fragrances starting from US$180 and reaching US$1,800, depending on the combination of ingredients used.

But why would anyone want to spend so much on a perfume? “Each perfume is made so that their owner feels emotionally connected to their scent,” explains Julian. It’s a creative and artistic process, far from the standardised processes of mass-producing high street perfume, and where the blend is complex it may take anything up to a month.

Offering more than just a unique smell, Fueguia’s wooden presentation boxes are made from fallen trees rather than felled, and a portion of their profits go to ‘Help Argentina’, an NGO that finances social development, education and recycling projects.

Fueguia’s products are so exquisite that their clients come to them by word of mouth. Remarkably, nothing has been spent on advertising since they opened in April this year, but apparently none was needed. A second Fueguia store, selling their range of delectable ready-made scents, is scheduled to open soon on Alvear 1680.

A complete skull of a mammal that was alive 95 million years ago was found in Patagonia, southern Argentina. It has been named Cronopio and is the first of its kind.

The small animal is said to have been the size of a rat with huge fags.

Little is known about the family of mammals that the Cronopio is part of, but they are estimated to have been alive in the Cretaceous period, the last stage before the complete extinction of dinosaurs.

The discovery was made near El Chocón in the Río Negro. The name Cronopio Dentiacutus has been chosen by the palaeontologists in tribute to the creatures created by the Argentine writer Julio Cortázar.

“Our knowledge of the first two thirds of the evolution of mammals is terribly incomplete. Considering the poverty of the fossil record, any discovery of a skull of a reasonably well preserved Mesozoic mammal is a very important event,” wrote Christian de Muizon, researcher at the Natural History Museum of Paris, in Nature.

Sometimes there can be a slight repetition amongst the skiing community. Not only do all tales of the slopes involve, yes snow, maybe one vin chaud too many, the occasional rescue helicopter, but also the same places. “Last year we had Christmas in les trois vallées”, “Courmayer is just the place to go in Easter”, or “Have you heard of Tignes?” – yes, actually I have. Sometimes you just want to try something different.

Argentine skiing is certainly this. Yes there aren’t that many resorts, no they’re not that big, and trying to hunt down a croque monsieur is just a nightmare. But there is much more to offer. Whether you just happen to find yourself at the foot of Cerro Catedral with a pair of ski boots flung over your shoulder, or you have purposefully made the thousands of miles journey in search of the heliskiing of Las Leñas, you will have a good experience in the snow here.

Skiing here is undoubtedly below the standard set in the Northern Hemisphere. So how do the resorts entice thousands used to the likes of Aspen, Val d’isere and Zermatt every year? Well there’s the obvious reason. While the slopes of Whistler are greener than an English meadow and glacier skiing in France and Austria leave you restricted to what is ultimately a patch of ice perched on the peak of a mountain, the southern hemisphere is enjoying daily snowfall and foots of fresh powder.

Many national race teams from the northern hemisphere come down to train in the fresh snow, escaping the monotony of gym sessions and repetitive courses. There is a new-breed of seasonaire too; the snow chaser. Many are now living in a constant cycle of ski seasons, where they travel from north to south – a lifestyle impossible a decade ago.

Argentine skiing though delivers a lot more than just a summer time jaunt to fill in the gap. There is a certain charm about the journey across to Mendoza, into the depths of Patagonia, or even down, down, down to Ushuaia. Skiing ultimately is about exploration, adventure and a way to travel. I used to love hearing my friend’s mum from Finland telling of how she would ski to school, or seeing old pictures of hunters and explorers with their wooden skis. The pursuit of snow sports therefore seems a fitting goal as you drive (OK probably fly) across the Pampas to the snowy peaks. Skiing in Argentina is above all an adventure – the true heart of any decent ski holiday.

A trip to Bariloche – the king of resorts in Argentina – may instantly trick you into forgetting that 15 hour flight from Europe and make you believe you actually just skipped over to Geneva. There are many aspects of the resort, and indeed many others in the country, which echo its European forbearers; the wooden buildings, the ski-shops, and yes the amazing chocolate. However you are undoubtedly in Argentina and nobody will let you forget it. Whether it is the food in the cafes, the chattering of castellano all around, or the regaton pumping from the après disco you will soon realise that any familiarities were soon an illusion.

You will also find that snow activities vary much more wildly. Whilst European resorts can offer you a cross country ski course, ice-skating or the ultimate disappointment that is snow shoeing, the extra-curricular activities here are not just a dull alternative. Indeed some border on the bizarre. Bariloche has a beauty pageant whilst Cerro Castor hosts a ‘Rugby X-treme’ tournament – where local, ex-puma and national players fight it out in sevens matches in the snow. Continuing the theme of sports in the snow, the Julius Baer Argentina Snow Cup is an official snow polo competition. Certified by the World Polo Tour it is a respected part of the international circuit. Held in Chapelco, the resort of San Martín de los Andes, this year it is a reason in itself to book a trip to the host ski resort. On a more relaxing note, the medium sized resort of Caviahue near Nequén, which is unusually enjoying the best snow in all of Argentina this season thus far, has hot spring waters with volcanic mineral properties. One positive aspect of Argentina’s proximity to the pacific ring of fire.

You will also get the opportunity to be a spectator to international ski and snowboard competitions in Argentina. Bariloche hosts its own snow festival in August, as well as regular international freestyle competitions. August also brings the International Ski Federation (FIS) alpine ski races to Cerro Castor down in Ushuaia. All the excitement of watching in Europe, except hopefully without the Austrian’s cherished cow bell.

This season has undoubtedly gotten off to the worst start imaginable. The chaos that falling volcanic ash brought to towns such as Villa la Angostura and San Martín de los Andes in June and July will take them years to recover from.

Snow has also been shy in falling. Bariloche, which last year enjoyed a bumper season, is still only ‘limitedly open’, whilst Cerro Castor and Las Leñas have only now just reached full swing.

However Argentines have proved themselves to be more than resilient when faced with a challenge. With a steadily improving national economy, and a booming local one (until the chaos of the ash cloud of course) infrastructure is improving all the time. Much is publicised about Bariloche’s modern infrastructure, which has been drastically expanded and improved in recent years. The other resorts are watching the success this has brought to that area, and as popularity increases resorts across Argentina are only going to get bigger and more efficient.

So why not join the hordes of Brazilians, squeeze into your onesie and head to the slopes. Maybe it will help us remember why skiing used to be such an adventure.

A month after it erupted, the Puyehue-Cordón-Caulle volcano in Southern Chile continues to affect neighbouring Argentina and other parts of the Southern Hemisphere.

Buenos Aires airports were closed due to volcanic ash for the second time last weekend, disrupting travel in and out of the capital. Nearer the volcano, Bariloche airport, the main hub in Patagonia, is due to reopen on Friday 8^th July after being shut for more than three weeks.

After the initial eruption, on 4th June, columns of smoke spewed up 12km from the pit of the volcano, forming a large and dense ash cloud. Pushed by strong winds, this ash cloud has spread over Argentine territory and across the Southern Hemisphere, closing airports as far away as New Zealand and South Africa.

Most affected were the Patagonian provinces of Rio Negro, Neuquén and Chubut, which together cover an area the size of Germany and England combined. On 17^th June they were declared “disaster zones” and in “economic emergency”.

As of today, all 4,000 evacuees from the 22 surrounding municipalities have been able to return home and most flights have been resumed. But there could be long-term economic and environmental consequences. Experts believe that economic losses in Patagonia could reach $600million and affect millions of people.

The Immediate Aftermath

Most of the damage and disruption is caused by ash. During a volcanic eruption, the spewing ash condenses in a thick cloud from which rains volcanic ash. An average layer of volcanic ash of 2.5 cm in thickness can weigh up to 25 kg/m2 when dry, and can surpass 70 kg/m2 if it gets wet.

Volcanic ash accumulates on roads, lakes, everywhere, causing disruptions in transport and affecting the local environment. This impedes business, which in Patagonia mostly resolves around tourism and agriculture.

Air travel faced severe disruption following the eruption. Ash presents a significant threat to aircrafts because if it enters the engines it could potentially cause them to fail. Under advice from the national meteorological service, airlines have been paralysed for days because the ash cloud was sitting between 6 and 13km from the ground, which is too low for planes to fly underneath.

Airline companies Aerolineas Argentinas and Chile’s LAN lost between $12 and $15millon pesos in the 10 first days following the eruption, according to daily La Nación. More than 400 domestic and international flights were cancelled, affecting an estimated 37,000 passengers.

The president of the Airlines Pilot Association (Asociación de Pilotos de Líneas Aéreas) Jorge Pérez Tamayo, claims Aerolineas Argentina and Austral -who account for 70% of domestic flights and 20% of international flights- were losing around $2 million pesos a day. A partial solution was to open new routes to Rio Grande and Ushuaia—both in Tierra del Fuego Province—or Esquel, and transfer passengers by road.

Bariloche receives 46% of its revenues from tourism, and is now facing 80% reservations cancellations. Roberto Sabato, provincial minister of tourism in Bariloche, told the Argentina Independent that this year’s ski season was already in jeopardy: “usually, the station receives 40,000 tourists, but half are yet to arrive”. He claimed the impact of the volcanic ash had been “very strong”, because aircrafts could not land for more than three weeks. On the whole, estimates of tourism revenue lost reach $300million in Patagonia, according to provincial tourism ministry officials.

In desperation, hotels and restaurants are offering special packages and 30% discounts or more. But the fall in tourist arrivals also means a fall in seasonal jobs, with women being the most affected. Villa Angostura, 87km north of Bariloche, is the most affected city, with an estimated $200million of losses and more than 3,000 jobs at risk. A member of the city’s Crisis Committee, Nestor Payllalef, claimed “a worrying situation with 30% of families affected” after a survey of 1,400 homes.

An environmental disaster

Selim Aleuy, Chubut’s environment and sustainable development ministry managing director, says the true environmental impact of the eruption is yet to be known but laboratories are currently studying the quality of air, water, soil and snow. “For the moment, we know that there is no health risk” he says. The air composition has not been affected, as the size of ash cells is inferior to 10 microns, and water in the affected areas remains drinkable.

In the long term, however, ash could pose a major hazard: ash accumulated in the snow, for example, could enhance the risks of avalanches.

Animals and livestock are also deeply affected by the volcanic ash. Oscar Echeverria, from the Environment Council of Rio Negro (CODEMA), spoke with us about the impact of the volcanic ash, saying it had been “hugely consequential” for fauna. He claims it is “practically impossible” to live where the ash has fallen.

Echeverria underlined the uncertainty of the facts at this time, saying that the nature and magnitude of the effects could still change. The provinces of Chubut and Río Negro have been suffering five years of drought, and the ash has destroyed the little pastureland still available.

The situation is catastrophic for most Patagonian farmers: fields and animals are covered in ash, resulting in the death of 600,000 to one million sheep. Meanwhile, the artificial lake of Alicura, 100km from Bariloche, which has 95% of the country’s trout population, is completely covered in ash, and hitting fisherman incomes hard. The volcanic ash also rose the temperature of the Nilahue River to 45 °C, killing around 4.5 million fish.

Measures taken

In Bariloche, several solidarity days were organised by the community to clean up the roads so that children could get to school and adults to work. On the provincial level, governors and municipality representatives say they are trying their best to reach out and provide assistance to every affected zone.

Federal officials announced they would use the Repro (Programa de Recuperación Productiva) to attenuate negative economic externalities. The Repro is a national subsidy that can cover part of private sector employees’ remuneration to limit the number of lay-offs.

On Monday 4^th July, President Cristina Fernández de Kirchner met with Rio Negro and Neuquén governors, Miguel Saiz and Jorge Sapag, to discuss relief measures.

Among these, President Fernández announced a doubling of social benefits for children, pregnant women and disabled people, as well as some tax exemptions. She appointed a $7million credit for cleaning the area and rebuilding the Route 23 –wich will create at least 300 jobs in Bariloche. Finally, she said $10million will be distributed to farmers and livestock breeders affected by the ash. These measures will be in place for at least 60 days.

Additional measures are being taken by the provinces themselves, including the decision by Chubut Governor Mario Das Neves – who was controversially not invited to the discussions with the president – to free up $1million from the local lottery. Rio Negro governor, Miguel Saiz, claims the province is in need of at least $16millon over the next three months.

Optimism and uncertainty

In Villa la Angostura, some are wondering if the fallen ash could be used productively. Twelve tons of ash have fallen on the city, and, with a similar composition to sand, it could be used for roads and other construction, generating work in the process. According to the city’s cabinet chief Emilio Alvear, a considerable part of the ash is recyclable.

Economist Maximiliano Geffner told the Argentina Independent that the negative economic impact in Patagonia was being countered by tourism in other parts of the country. Regarding the policy response, Geffner supports the government emergency aid but underlined the necessity for further policies that would give sustainable support to businesses and labour. He said that specific figures of the economic impact were still unknown: “the volcano crisis is a conjunctural crisis that will probably be resolved, but in an unknown period of time”.

Tourism workers are regaining some hope as the season’s first snow falls over Bariloche’s Cerro Catedral slopes. On 1^st July, 1,200 students arrived to help kickstart the new skiing season. Though there are fewer Brazilian’s than usual, Argentines and Chileans seem to be slowly arriving. Roads and public services are now nearly completely restored, making terrestrial transport easier.

Chilean experts said that in the coming days either lava would flow from the volcano, indicating the eruption was ending, or magma below the surface would cause a new explosion. Most believe the volcano will become less active in the next two weeks, with the plume of smoke now at around a quarter of its maximum height.

Past and Future

Issues debated and studies on volcanoes could enable to better prepare for such disaster and develop sustainable policies. This latest ash crisis has raised interesting points, such as geologist Carlos Beros’ suggestion that volcanic ash should be accepted as necessary for the ecosystem and dealt with as rain is.

The Pueyhue-Cordón-Caulle volcano complex is situated in what is known as ‘The Pacific Ring of Fire’, where earthquakes and volcanic eruptions frequently occur. Chile’s chain of 2,000 volcanoes is the world second largest after Indonesia, with about 60 that have erupted over the past 450 years and 500 that are potentially active.

Although the eruption is frequently referred to as coming from Puyehue volcano, it actually came from the adjacent Cordón Caulle opening—which previously erupted in 1960. Puyehue itself has remained dormant.

A similar crisis occurred in Europe in April last year, when Icelandic volcano Eyjafjallajokull erupted, causing the cancelation of around 100,000 flights, affecting 10 million people and costing around US$1.7billion.