Sometimes there can be a slight repetition amongst the skiing community. Not only do all tales of the slopes involve, yes snow, maybe one vin chaud too many, the occasional rescue helicopter, but also the same places. “Last year we had Christmas in les trois vallées”, “Courmayer is just the place to go in Easter”, or “Have you heard of Tignes?” – yes, actually I have. Sometimes you just want to try something different.

Argentine skiing is certainly this. Yes there aren’t that many resorts, no they’re not that big, and trying to hunt down a croque monsieur is just a nightmare. But there is much more to offer. Whether you just happen to find yourself at the foot of Cerro Catedral with a pair of ski boots flung over your shoulder, or you have purposefully made the thousands of miles journey in search of the heliskiing of Las Leñas, you will have a good experience in the snow here.

Skiing here is undoubtedly below the standard set in the Northern Hemisphere. So how do the resorts entice thousands used to the likes of Aspen, Val d’isere and Zermatt every year? Well there’s the obvious reason. While the slopes of Whistler are greener than an English meadow and glacier skiing in France and Austria leave you restricted to what is ultimately a patch of ice perched on the peak of a mountain, the southern hemisphere is enjoying daily snowfall and foots of fresh powder.

Many national race teams from the northern hemisphere come down to train in the fresh snow, escaping the monotony of gym sessions and repetitive courses. There is a new-breed of seasonaire too; the snow chaser. Many are now living in a constant cycle of ski seasons, where they travel from north to south – a lifestyle impossible a decade ago.

Argentine skiing though delivers a lot more than just a summer time jaunt to fill in the gap. There is a certain charm about the journey across to Mendoza, into the depths of Patagonia, or even down, down, down to Ushuaia. Skiing ultimately is about exploration, adventure and a way to travel. I used to love hearing my friend’s mum from Finland telling of how she would ski to school, or seeing old pictures of hunters and explorers with their wooden skis. The pursuit of snow sports therefore seems a fitting goal as you drive (OK probably fly) across the Pampas to the snowy peaks. Skiing in Argentina is above all an adventure – the true heart of any decent ski holiday.

Llao Llao Resort in Bariloche (Photo: Murilo Cardoso)

A trip to Bariloche – the king of resorts in Argentina - may instantly trick you into forgetting that 15 hour flight from Europe and make you believe you actually just skipped over to Geneva. There are many aspects of the resort, and indeed many others in the country, which echo its European forbearers; the wooden buildings, the ski-shops, and yes the amazing chocolate. However you are undoubtedly in Argentina and nobody will let you forget it. Whether it is the food in the cafes, the chattering of castellano all around, or the regaton pumping from the après disco you will soon realise that any familiarities were soon an illusion.

You will also find that snow activities vary much more wildly. Whilst European resorts can offer you a cross country ski course, ice-skating or the ultimate disappointment that is snow shoeing, the extra-curricular activities here are not just a dull alternative. Indeed some border on the bizarre. Bariloche has a beauty pageant whilst Cerro Castor hosts a ‘Rugby X-treme’ tournament – where local, ex-puma and national players fight it out in sevens matches in the snow. Continuing the theme of sports in the snow, the Julius Baer Argentina Snow Cup is an official snow polo competition. Certified by the World Polo Tour it is a respected part of the international circuit. Held in Chapelco, the resort of San Martín de los Andes, this year it is a reason in itself to book a trip to the host ski resort. On a more relaxing note, the medium sized resort of Caviahue near Nequén, which is unusually enjoying the best snow in all of Argentina this season thus far, has hot spring waters with volcanic mineral properties. One positive aspect of Argentina’s proximity to the pacific ring of fire.

You will also get the opportunity to be a spectator to international ski and snowboard competitions in Argentina. Bariloche hosts its own snow festival in August, as well as regular international freestyle competitions. August also brings the International Ski Federation (FIS) alpine ski races to Cerro Castor down in Ushuaia. All the excitement of watching in Europe, except hopefully without the Austrian’s cherished cow bell.

This season has undoubtedly gotten off to the worst start imaginable. The chaos that falling volcanic ash brought to towns such as Villa la Angostura and San Martín de los Andes in June and July will take them years to recover from.

Snow has also been shy in falling. Bariloche, which last year enjoyed a bumper season, is still only ‘limitedly open’, whilst Cerro Castor and Las Leñas have only now just reached full swing.

However Argentines have proved themselves to be more than resilient when faced with a challenge. With a steadily improving national economy, and a booming local one (until the chaos of the ash cloud of course) infrastructure is improving all the time. Much is publicised about Bariloche’s modern infrastructure, which has been drastically expanded and improved in recent years. The other resorts are watching the success this has brought to that area, and as popularity increases resorts across Argentina are only going to get bigger and more efficient.

So why not join the hordes of Brazilians, squeeze into your onesie and head to the slopes. Maybe it will help us remember why skiing used to be such an adventure.

Photos courtesy of Las Leñas

After the long journey across Argentina’s breadth, the road brings you off the seemingly infinite plains into a valley, nestled comfortably at the feet of several Andean peaks, that ends with Las Leñas.

Overnight buses containing eager skiers and snow boarders arrive in the large square early in the morning. A sign at one side of the square brandishly announces, ‘¡Las Leñas!’ Behind this, huge accommodation blocks compete for the morning’s eastern sun, resembling a university campus in their uniformity. This is, after all, a purpose-built ski resort rather than the charming Andean village awash with llamas, log fires, Malbec and alfajores. I had led myself to believe this until a week previous. Before the finish of construction in 1983, there had been no inhabitants here. All that lies in the vicinity are indomitable slopes on three sides and a valley road leading out to scores of miles of nothing. This town is here for the snow, and only the snow.

An ambitious project by a single landholding and produce company, Las Leñas was built to exploit the untapped Andean peaks and present them to a world market. Largely this has been achieved, the resort is a popular destination for skiers and boarders from all over the world, Brazilians, North Americans and assorted Europeans are all easily encountered, but Argentine holidaymakers hold sway here.

All reasonably affordable accommodation is quite simple; from one room self-catering bunks to family rooms with a little more space. The hotels here do offer luxury with greater comfort but at a hugely inflated price. All accommodation options are owned by the same company, so chances of finding a thrift competitive bargain are nil. Although we managed to bag a late deal at a cut price, I was told this was quite rare. The maid service is exceptional, everything cleaned daily from dishes to bed sheets and bathroom. It was lovely traipsing back into the room damp, cold and tired to find fresh towels and an impeccably clean room, just as you find it when you arrive on your first day, still containing your belongings of course.

Photos courtesy of Las Leñas

Leaving your room to make your way to the slopes, charmingly sloth-like troop buses provide a continuous relay of transportation, around what is a very walkable resort. By the end of the week, guests stand in tired groups at the side of the road to be taken by bus the 200 metres to their rooms, rather than walk their weary way.

Restaurants and bars are a little expensive, understandably, so many of the guests choose to retire to their respective quarters to cook for themselves and then nap at the close of the pistes. My Argentine friends all brought suitcases full of pasta and crackers for us to subside on for the week. I brought a similarly large suitcase full of wine after panic buying upon hearing the news that good wine was hard to find there at a reasonable price.

Après ski is, to all extents, non-existent here. I spent a couple of futile nights sitting forlorn in bars in my salapets and boots waiting for the crowds to start ordering their Jaeger and beer, but was left with just the barman staring curiously at my solitary presence.

Nightlife starts at around midnight where a couple of bars will let you in from the cold for a price. If for you, like me, an early night without a tipple is out of the question, then this late start is terribly detrimental to your skiing. I urge you with all my will to make that early start though, even if your night’s last Fernet & coke was only a couple of hours previous and your breath is melting the snow in front of you as you ski (am taking no responsibility for your safety here though), do it. The most reliable skiing is to be had in the morning, this early start allows you to ski relatively empty slopes and avoid closed lifts from their opening at 8:30am until the rest of the masses arise and head out at around 9:30am. After that you will be queuing.

The pistes themselves offer a comfortable range of blue and red pistes on the lower slopes above the resort, but nothing really challenging, although there is the spectacular black run down the striding ridge overlooking the resort. This though tends to be officially closed for much of the time, so you’ll be waiving your insurance skiing it (ski patrol recovery here starts at US$1,000) this doesn’t seem to deter many people though. It’s far too tempting, a steep and dizzying swathe of great snow as wide as it is long: fantastic. My understanding was, if you did crash, the incline of the slope was suitable enough to bring your broken form to a rest on the green piste, some 800 feet below, where your medical expenses would be covered.

Photos courtesy of Las Leñas

The real playground is a set of three lifts that take you around the back of the mountain and up onto its shoulders. Here is the legendary off-piste that Las Leñas is renowned for. Of a huge scale – rumoured to be the most extensive in the world – this off-piste is long and steep, a marathon of skiing and snowboarding hedonism. Getting to the start of all this is completely dependant on the unreliable Marte ski lift, which spends much of its time static, awaiting more favourable weather conditions to open. The majority of skiers at Las Leñas tend to be beginners or intermediate, and hence crowd the pistes. This makes the off-pistes so much better; even on small sections of off-piste between some of the crowded pistes you will find virgin snow some two days after a dumping, all worth trying out if the Marte lift is closed.

Organised trips with guides up here are expensive, but you will be covered by insurance and have a skidoo or piste-basher carry you the one hour or more walk to the start of some of the best off-piste.

I believe Cerro Catedral near Bariloche has the most beautiful landscape to offer from the Andes, but there is something striking about these more northern peaks, rugged and bare, and devoid of trees, craggy outcrops and ridges poking up through the snow. Not a charming Alpine beauty, but a rugged and intimidating Andean might.

With this very open terrain, Las Leñas does suffer from some strong winds, especially in the afternoon. Regularly from 2 or 3pm you will find the upper lifts closed due to the weather conditions across the whole mountain, which can be frustrating, and is a major gripe from everybody, especially as this renders the lower slopes overcrowded. This frustration can be tempered by retiring down slope to one of the cafes at the foot of the pistes’ end and sitting down to watch these violent, sudden gusts of wind set fly to cups of tea, hats and vacant chairs and then demolishing the lemming-like lines of junior skiers learning their snow plough. It’s wrong, I know, but I could hardly stifle my laughter.

When you leave the slopes, willing or not, there is a choice of cafes and restaurants to seek succour in. Automobile industry sponsorship holds sway here – there’s a Mitsubishi food hall, an Audi bar, a BMW restaurant and, further downhill, a less commercial, smaller bar with pretty waitresses.

Photos courtesy of Las Leñas

I struggled to comprehend this brazen sponsorship. Skiing is where vehicle purchase would be furthest from my mind. What’s more, the hotel Virgo was similarly infected with this, by a tyre company. Subsequently their entire foyer is dotted with tyres in glass display cases. At the bar I tried ordering a ‘4×4 Synchrone’, thinking it to be an edgy cocktail, and the bartender, at first befuddled then seizing the clarity, politely pointed out that I was reading from one of the tyre pamphlets scattered on every table and not from the bar menu.

Of all the cafes and restaurants on offer, my pick was a genuinely charming ‘Café Hydra’ at the bottom of the hill, behind the medical centre. One of the few independently run businesses here, everything was roughly half the price and I managed to escape the resort ‘feel’.

You could find me most days in here, quietly cold and damp, hovering my nose over a submarino waiting for my tostadas. It was here I got to reflect on how much I enjoyed Las Leñas, for all its peculiarities; closed lifts, odd night life in cumbia clubs, sensational off-piste, fragmented sleep with a frontier feel.

It all mixes to create Las Leñas’ own special charm; the inert lifts are a talking point with strangers, there’s a special feeling of luck and privilege when you do eventually make it to the top of the Marte lift. I realised that, yes, I had had great fun and I looked forward to coming back.

For more information on Las Leñas and the ski options available, visit www.laslenas.com