Tucked away between the Hipódromo Argentino and Jorge Newberry Airport, the Velódromo de la Cuidad be Buenos Aires is one of the city’s best kept secrets. From the top of stands designed to seat 15,000 people you are treated to a commanding view over Parque Tres de Febrero, the high rise apartment blocks of Palermo, and the enormous outdoor track below.

The abandoned velodromo in Buenos Aires (Photo: Alex King)

For four decades the cream of Latin America’s cyclists hurtled around its banked corners, emboldened by the shouts and screams of thousands of fans. But now it lies empty, the track colonised by vegetation and the stands silent. The velodrome was built by Juan Domingo Perón for the Panamerican Games in 1951 but in a tale typical of 1990s Argentina a corrupt privatisation deal led to its abandonment, and it has lain empty ever since.

Elsewhere in the city, however, one of the most vibrant cycling communities in the world is just coming out of hibernation. With the blossoming of spring in the southern hemisphere, Buenos Aires retakes the mantle of world cycling capital.

Over the past decade an incredibly vibrant subculture has grown up around the bike, one that has spawned anarchist bike maintenance cooperatives, clandestine “puerta cerrada” bike modding workshops and mysterious riding groups who make secretive midnight explorations of the city. Oh, and tonnes of great parties.

This weekend sees the first shoots of what looks set to become another fantastic summer of cycling in BA as the second Che Polo South American Bike Polo Fest kicks off at Plaza Unidad Latinoamericano. Thirty male and female teams from all over Latin America will compete over two days, accompanied by a host of parallel activities such as food, music, parties and group cycle rides of the city.

It seems Argentines just have polo in their blood as the two-wheeled cousin of the traditional equine version is booming. Check the Argentina Fixed Gear forum for polo matches throughout the year.

In Buenos Aires, somehow it always seems events like these are about much more than just cycling. Che Polo’s organisers see their event as “a weekend to strengthen urban cycling in our city but at the same time an instrument that will build a greater union between countries and cultures of our continent”.

Che Polo Bike Festival (Photo: Nacho Perasso)

While the movement is too diverse to generalise, BA’s cyclists reject the selfishness of the car-dominated society and instead use the bike as a political tool to push for self-sufficiency, sustainability, and cooperation.

Fabricicleta, for example, is a community workshop and bike repair cooperative housed in a former pizzeria in Villa Urquiza. Inspired by the anarchist ideal of self-sufficiency, they provide tools and know-how to anyone with a broken bike, or to those who just want to learn more about cycle maintenance.

If you thought cycling made you automatically eco-conscious, think again. Not content with a zero-emission machine, Argentine company Monochrome recycle dilapidated old bikes and rejuvenate them in the brand’s trademark white.

With a slightly different take on bicycle recycling, Rashe Cycles or Born in Garage, two of the finest “puerta cerrada” private cycle workshops in Buenos Aires hand build custom bikes to order from refurbished retro parts. They take pride in producing unique two-wheeled works of art every time.

Dispensing with steel and aluminium altogether, Bambucicleta take sustainability to new heights. The workshop has crafted a range of fully capable bikes from bamboo, using approximately 10% of the energy and resources used in traditional bike manufacture. Their bamboo fixie is a true master work.

To discover BA’s thriving cycling culture for yourself a good place to start is the La Vida en Bici blog. Artist Mati Kalwill’s project aims to “fill the world with bicycles” by encouraging love for cycling.

Or you can find a set of wheels and head down to the Obelisco at 4pm on the first Sunday of any month. Here the phenomenal Masa Critíca (Critical Mass) brings the city’s cyclists together into a rolling street carnival one thousand strong to reclaim the streets and spread awareness of the bike. Free of the militant edge sometimes found at Critical Mass in the northern hemisphere, the buena onda radiates from the river of cyclists.

Whether you are an avid cyclist or still yet to be converted, its incredible and unique atmosphere makes Masa Crítica truly the best way to experience Buenos Aires.

On a daily basis, 1,375,000 vehicles enter Buenos Aires, between private cars, public transport and trucks. As a result, transport is responsible for 38% of greenhouse gases in the city, and 90% of the pollution.

The transport system has collapsed. Part of the problem is to do with the shape of the city - the centre of financial and commercial activities are concentrated along the river, meaning the majority of the transport has to cross the city, from 180 degrees, instead of the 360 degrees in a more conventionally shaped city, with the economic heart in the geographic centre.

Lack of maintenance of the vehicles is another issue, leading to less fuel efficiency, thus generating higher emissions.

Buenos Aires is additionally the noisiest city in Latin America, and these high levels of noise add to the air pollution. According to the World Health Organisation, above 70 decibels, sounds are bothersome, and those higher than 90 decibels are damaging. Thirty years ago, the noise level in the streets of Buenos Aires was between 50 and 60 decibels - today the levels are above 70.

There is hope - in 2009 the first eco-bus with a hybrid engine, between running in the city on line 62. Then just last month the Metrobus began to run from Palermo to Liniers, speeding up commutes with an efficient system. And lest we forget, Macri and his ‘Mejor en Bici’ campaign, aiming to get us all on bikes! That said, there is much to be done.

So what can you do?

• Walk! If you live in the city, pretty much everything you could need is within walking distance, and so go out and use it. Supporting local stores rather than driving to a supermarket helps the local economy as well as being better for the environment. So why not get around on your own energy - it is healthier too.
• Use a bicycle. Yes, it’s still a bit scary, but getting better. A few tips: ride on the left-hand side, particularly on bigger roads, as buses pull in on the right and taxis also cruise there, so you will have a less stressful ride on the right; invest in a bell - particularly useful for those who have decided bicisendas are actually the pavement and want to wander leisurely up them with their backs to you. Or learn to holler “es un bicisenda, boludo/a!” To see a map of the bike lanes and where you can safely park your bike, visit www.mejorenbici.com.
• Use public transport. Sounds obvious, but it really does make a difference. And if you are anywhere near a subte, it is by far the fastest way to get around the city. Don’t kid yourself and get a taxi thinking it will be quicker - 99% of the time, it won’t be!
• Don’t use the car for short distances - particularly in the city, where your engine is much less efficient - on average double the amount of fuel is used up than the same distance on the open road.
• If you insist on taking your car, share it! If two people were to share a journey of 15km to work on a daily basis, they would save 1.5 tonnes of CO2 a year, as well as around $180 each on petrol. If nobody in your office lives near you, find someone! Two sites exist: www.viajamosjuntos.com and www.compartocoche.com.ar, and you can save money as well as meeting someone new.

Sunday 5th June El Galpón farmers’ market in Chacarita played host to celebrations for World Environment Day, organised by Ambientate. The day-long event included, among other things, an array of bands, a bicycle fashion show and some excellent organic food.

The wide range of groups who took part give us a good snapshot of Argentina’s fledgling ecological movement. One of the most interesting of these groups was EcoBolsas. A cooperative for social inclusion, it trains homeless people to make sustainably produced bags, providing them with skills and employment while helping to reduce our reliance on plastic bags.

A clothes swap aimed to raise awareness of the huge environmental impact of producing clothing and show how making responsible choices can dramatically reduce our carbon footprint. They highlighted how by re-using the wealth of unused clothing in circulation instead of buying new we can avoid consuming ever more raw materials.

Another hidden, but considerable, contributor to our carbon footprint is in what we eat. Alicia Bersi was on hand to demonstrate the benefits of a more sustainable diet: choosing organic, buying from local producers, and reducing our meat consumption. For example, producing one kilogram of meat emits twelve to fourteen times the amount of carbon as does producing one kilogram of apples. Bersi was also distributing delicious vegetarian recipes to help win over those reluctant to give up their carne.

Attempting to bring these promising green shoots together into a credible force for change were Ambientate, an umbrella group for the environmental movement in Argentina. Organisers of the event, they also helped make Argentina the first country in Latin America to sign up to the global 10:10 movement to reduce carbon emissions.

Wherever you find politics in Argentina music is never far away, and a selection of bands played to entertain visitors and spread awareness throughout the day. The Indy spoke to members of Sueños de Libertad and Tres Arroyos to ask what World Environment Day meant to them.

Lukas from Sueños de Libertad underlined why, as artists, they felt so proud to be involved, because “the movement to protect the environment is the only cause we have to care about absolutely, because if there’s no world, there’s no life. And if there’s no life, there’s no art.”

But their views echoed a consensus that eco-consciousness as a nation was low, and that big corporations, soya farmers and an unwilling government were among the biggest threats to protecting the environment in Argentina.

However, when asked if they had hope for a greener future all answered a resounding “yes,” confident awareness was increasing. Fernando from 3 Arroyos emphasised “this is why we play: to keep the fire behind the movement going.”

Argentina’s greener future looks set to arrive on two wheels, as the evening was dominated by cycling groups. The monthly Critical Mass bike ride was re-routed to El Galpón and the evening saw the event invaded by an army of cyclists. One of the groups who pedalled along were Fabricicleta, a non-profit workshop who provide free bicycle repair and instruction on cycle maintenance. The project also find abandoned bikes, work to repair them, and then pass them on free of charge to anyone looking for a carbon neutral method of transport.

Representatives of the city government’s Mejor en Bici were also on hand to demonstrate how through the construction of a comprehensive network of bicisendas they are putting the bike at the heart of Buenos Aires’ transport policy.

But the highlight of the day was Biciconga‘s hugely entertaining cycle fashion show. Through their imaginative and unique events they aim to spread a love of cycling. They bring people together and show that the bike is even more than just a free, green, and healthy way to get around.

Biciconga’s message echoed that of the event as a whole: that being green is about more than just hard choices, it is about joining a vibrant community of cool and creative people who want to come together to share the embrace of a better way of life.

Cyclist using the Bicisenda on Billinghurst (Photo: Beatrice Murch)

Following in the footsteps of well-known urban cycling hubs, Buenos Aires has never been more prepared to become a bicycle-friendly city. Catching on to the cycling trends set by other parts of the world, the biking craze is gathering speed in Argentina as various initiatives and communities are establishing themselves around the city. This is not surprising: the polluted and traffic-clogged avenues of Buenos Aires often make the concrete sprawl seem impenetrable, and public transport is unpleasant in the sweltering heat and can make the shortest journey into a stifling excursion.

It may not be the next Amsterdam or Copenhagen but the amount of residents taking to two wheels is growing and already bike sales are up by an estimated 50% from last year. This increase looks set to transform the city’s roads and the latest developments from the local government are helping carry this trend. Put-off by the throngs of collectivos thundering down each street many of the city’s inhabitants are too scared to take to two wheels. To combat this obstacle the city government have installed a series of bike paths and are intent on expanding the current modest network to 100 km by the end of 2011. They also recently adapted city laws to ensure that any new or renovated garage has a bicycle parking area within it, a policy aimed at reducing the high rates of bike theft in Buenos Aires.

“Cycling transforms the way you experience the city,” claims Samuel Frommer, Project Coordinator for the Institute for Transportation Development Policy (ITDP) working with the city’s bicycle programme. “You begin to look forward to your commute, and look for any excuse to ride your bike – the freedom to move around the city.” To take advantage of this freedom and enjoy Argentina’s small footsteps in the direction towards becoming a cycling capital, here is a little taste of ways you can enjoy cycling around the city.

One less car (Photo: Felix Busso)

Masa Critica

Mass cycle rides have been around for decades, originally thought to take place in Sweden in the early 1970s. Born in its current form in San Francisco in 1992 ‘Critical Mass’, the monthly cycle ride, has grown globally, and currently takes place in 300 cities worldwide. With the objective of drawing attention to the hostility drivers demonstrates towards cyclists, people meet with their bikes at a specific place and time and take to the streets. Beyond the meeting point the cycle ride is not formalised and traditionally ventures across cities in unplanned routes. Stopping traffic through the sheer volume of cyclists, the group takes direct non-violent action in an enjoyable political protest.

In Buenos Aires the city-wide cycle begins at the Obelisk on the first Sunday of each month. At 4pm hundreds of cyclists join forces and begin a wide-scale tour en masse, with certain cyclists providing music from peddle-powered steroes. One evening each month the group offers another variation: Masa Critica Nocturna, where the group enjoys a moonlit tour of the city from 9pm. In addition BiciConga is the more modest option, where a smaller group heads to a secret location to enjoy photo shoots with their bicycles, live music, and snacks of vegetarian empanadas and fernet. For more information visit the masa critica website.

City bikes available for free after providing identification (courtesy of Mejor en Bici)

Mejor en Bici

Taking the initiative following great success in cities such as Barcelona and Washington DC, the city government opened it’s first public bike lending scheme towards the end of last year. With bicycle stations opening up across the city the bike scheme is well under way, with two of its main deposit sites at the Plaza de Mayo area. To borrow a bike, you need an ID and a bill or official documentation with an Argentine address. Following that the lending initiative is free for anyone and thus open to the expat community.

The response has been enormous, with tens of thousands of followers on their website and the public bike stands around the city being used daily. The logistics of the scheme are still being ironed out, but on the whole the government has already made a success of what could have been a difficult operation. For more information visit the official website.

Bike Tours

Bicycle touring companies are growing in popularity around the city. One of the youngest companies, Biking Buenos Aires, has established itself as a touring company with a difference. Offering historical bike tours that keep you rooted to your saddle for several hours, Biking Buenos Aires has a modest but useful range of bikes to chose from. Providing a choice between mountain bikes or an ergonomic option, specifically designed to help cyclist’s posture, the bikes meet different needs.

The company also offers a choice between a north tour that encompasses the beautiful bosques de Palermo and a mate pit-stop, and a south tour that includes a typical Argentine lunch in the Puerto Madero area. According to Business Development Coordinator, Robin Gerlach, the attitude of drivers is improving but still needs to be pushed. He finds the new schemes encouraging, but still prefers to keep the tours as much off the roads as possible. See the website http://www.bikingbuenosaires.com for more information.

Key Model S2L-X (courtesy of Brompton)

Brompton Bicycles

The beautifully designed Brompton bicycles are not a common sight around the city. Seeing an opening in the market, Natural Deli owner Michael Legge and lawyer Marcelo Slonimsky have begun to bring in the hand-assembled bicycles over from Brompton’s single factory in England, with the view to help the current cycling trend in Buenos Aires grow even further. The folding bikes look set to do well in a city where space and theft are some of the main issues preventing citizens from taking up two-wheeled transit. The bicycles will be available to order from the huge varieties that Brompton offers, with customers being able to chose from handlebar style, colour and added accessories such as racks. A useful mode of transport for commuters and students the bicycles will also appeal to the sailing community and those who have perhaps never sat on a saddle before.

“There are huge amounts of benefits to going to work by bike,” claims Michael. “You appreciate the city more. And with the Bromptons this is relatively hassle-free as they fit into everyday life.” Michael and Marcelo understand that the city is becoming less hostile to bicycles and are in good company as huge amounts of bike fans are taking to the roads and paths. For information about the exclusive offer to win a week on a Brompton, sign up to the weekly Argentina Independent newsletter by emailing info@argentinaindependent.com. And visit the Brompton website for more information about the bicyles.

La Fabricicleta

For a good bike expert to sort out all your issues visit La Fabricicleta. Here they also they have classes to teach cyclists how to fix problems from punctures to break issues with workshops by El Santy. Resident bike engineer for the critical massers he provides classes in order that cyclists can fix the basics themselves. Find information about la fabricicleta on their website.

Critical Mass cyclists take to the streets. (Photo: Beatrice Murch )

The scene is one of celebratory chaos. We surge forward: a barrage of velocipede force, flooding the wide avenues of downtown Buenos Aires to a rampageous soundtrack of whistles, horns, bells and cheers. As the city traffic builds up behind us, so do the triumphant chants of “¡Bici sí, auto no!” The torrent of elaborately decorated bicycles floods the capital, determined to take charge of the roads, en masse.

Critical Mass (in Spanish, Masa Crítica) is a global movement of cyclists who take to the streets to exalt in the pleasure of pedalling. It is estimated that to date, Critical Mass rides take place in more than 325 towns and cities worldwide. For the event to function, the only requirement is a sufficient turn-out to create a “critical mass” of riders, dense enough to occupy a piece of road to the exclusion of motorised vehicles. With an abundance of objectives personal to each participant, the mass strives to highlight the importance of their chosen mode of transport in a society domineered by the automobile. They aim not merely to block the traffic, but to demonstrate that they can – and should – be the traffic.

One Year on Two Wheels

This October, the Masa Crítica of Buenos Aires celebrated its first anniversary. Following in the footsteps of the movement’s 1992 conception in California, the popularity of Masa Crítica in the Argentine capital has grown at an astounding rate. Cyclists meet at the Obelisk at 4pm on the first Sunday of every month, and in contrast to its tiny beginnings as a gathering of four cyclists in 2008, more than 200 attendees proved that the MC’s first birthday was, indeed, cause for festivities.

“Initially, people doubted us.” Micky Ballario recalls the reaction he faced when he and three friends decided to start a Critical Mass in Buenos Aires: “In general, it is difficult to encourage people to challenge the cars in Buenos Aires. However I had read about the mass around the globe, and saw no reason why we shouldn’t follow suit here. There are enough cyclists to have a great impact on the traffic. People are only sceptical because cars play such a huge part in the everyday life of the city. They take over.”

Stopping Traffic

Photo by Ellen Knuti

For Micky, forming a Critical Mass was a means of protesting: “If we show how many we are, perhaps the authorities will take notice, create more bicycle lanes and encourage cycling as a preferable mode of transport. It would certainly do the environment some favours.” However, Micky is quick to attest that no definitive cause or objective should be tagged to the movement. Participants insist that these rides be viewed as ‘celebrations’ and spontaneous gatherings, and not protests or organised demonstrations. This allows Critical Mass to argue that its events can legally occur without advance notification of local police.

Micky explains: “Masa Crítica has no specific agenda or goal. We just hope that each time, more people will take part.” He upholds the MC creed that although the celebratory cycle comes round once a month, we should be turning to two wheels as a means of traversing the city every day.

Mass Motives

Indeed, of the 250 porteños and tourists alike who congregated for December’s Masa Crítica, I could not find two identical reasons for joining in. Some championed cyclists’ rights; others quite simply enjoyed the frenzied merriment of the “bicycle march”. María, 28, describes how she hopes to “improve the image of biking in the city, bringing cyclists’ safety to the awareness of drivers, whilst protesting for a more ‘cycle-able’ and less polluted city.” On the other hand, Federico, 20 said that he cycled to keep fit. “MC is great because exercise is always more fun in a big group”.

Assigning one particular aim to Masa Crítica is made more difficult by its leaderless structure. Its purpose is not formalised beyond the direct action of meeting at a set location and time and travelling as a group on bikes or roller-skates. Micky stresses that he would never refer to himself as an ‘organiser’, but rather a pioneer of the movement in Buenos Aires.

‘Xerocracia’ and ‘Fotocopiacracia’

The world over, the Critical Mass vernaculars maintain that: “Critical mass is not an organisation, but rather it is an unorganised coincidence.” There are no leaders or members, and it is unlike other social movements in its rhizomal (rather than hierarchical) structure. The route of the Buenos Aires Masa Crítica is an impromptu decision made by whoever is at the front of the mass at any given moment.

"The bike is the protagonist." (Photo: Beatrice Murch)

The MC exists of a basis of ‘xerocracia’ and ‘fotocopiacracia’, which describe the predominating essence of the movement: there is no bureaucracy, though anyone can choose to photocopy and distribute suggested routes or publicity material, in a bid to diffuse the message. However, no one will claim control of the event, and when asked if he would mind having his picture taken, Micky instead presents his black Raleigh, declaring: “The bike is the protagonist”.

Critical Mess?

The ‘disorganised’ nature of the event frees it from the structural costs associated with a centralised, hierarchical organization. However, there were times when the impulsive laxity of the MC made for a bumpy ride. The leaderless convoy came full circle twice, unintentionally bringing us back to where we started; and on occasion, the bikes did not bunch up quickly enough to form a ‘critical mass’, leaving the group divided and exposed to some dangerous run-ins. One cyclist was clipped by a taxi, and although unhurt, the flurry of confusion and arguments which ensued would perhaps have been best resolved by a single, authoritative figure.

A Collective Tour de Force

Nonetheless, Micky emphasises that Masa Crítica “spontaneously organises itself, and works because it is a totally rational concept”. He says: “It just makes sense that we should be cycling, and this way, we can share this in the heart of the city.” Certainly, thanks to the profound sense of unity of the MC, although chaotic, it is gloriously so. Its success lies in collaboration.

Sergio Perez rallies the crowd with a large megaphone. (Photo: Beatrice Murch)

Sergio Perez runs a free bike repairs workshop which he advertises on the Masa Crítica blogspot. “This is my way of helping out,” he says. “We all do what we can. Some people bring mate, some bring food. Others make banners, distribute fliers or post photos on the webpage. I fix bikes.” As the crowds congregate, he stands on a wall, brandishing a megaphone with which he conducts singing and chanting under the Sunday afternoon sun. He identifies the atmosphere as one of a “rampant bicycle party”, and as the voices around the obelisco rise in excited union, the throng of cyclists prepare to reclaim the Buenos Aires streets. They will succeed only if they do so as a pack: a mass who, together, can “make the movement move.”

Masa Crítica takes place at 4pm on the first Sunday of every month. The group meets at the Obelisk. For more information, visit www.masacriticabsas.com.ar or masacriticabsas.blogspot.com

Masa Crítica cycles are also held in La Paz (www.masacriticaxlapaz.com.ar), Mar del Plata (masacriticamdp.blogspot.com) and Pinamar (masacriticapinamar.blogspot.com).

Photo by Stephanie Santana

Maybe it’s the result of too many field trips in primary school, but for whatever reason I have an extreme aversion to group tours. Shuffling around a busy city in a crowd of strangers while straining to hear a guide speak is just not for me.

There has to be another way. And, in a city full of creativity, of course there is: enter the world of bike tours, and the company Urban Biking.

Based in the city of Buenos Aires the company offers four distinct tours, two of which are half-day (four hours long) and run twice a day, everyday, at 9am and 2pm. A tour of northern Buenos Aires, appropriately called, “The North,” covers Retiro, Barrio Parque, Palermo Woods, Palermo Soho, and Recoleta. The other half-day tour offered, “The South,” covers the city’s southern areas, Puerto Madero, the city’s ecological reserve, La Boca, San Telmo and Plaza de Mayo. An additional tour, “Porteño Nightlife,” sets off at 9pm in order to let tourists see the city lit up at night. Finally, a full-day tour in Tigre lets participants explore the island by land and by sea, adding kayaking to the mix.

While the price of this full-day option seems pretty steep at US$ 82, and the nighttime tour running US$45, the two daytime tours are each US$35. After doing some internet research, I found that the daytime tour price is about the same as that charged by other companies offering the same service. Figuring that would be the better deal I opted for the tour ‘The South’.

A little after 2pm on a Sunday I arrive at the e-mailed meeting point of Santa Fe 702, ‘Museo de Armas’. I spot a group of five people clustered around six bicycles. Pleasantly surprised by the smallness of our group, I introduce myself and am handed a complimentary bottle of water and helmet for the day. Everyone is dressed pretty casually, a mix of jeans, kahkis and sweatpants, letting on that we are in for an easy ride.

Kickstands up, we’re off towards Puerto Madero. As we gaze from the pier towards El Puente de la Mujer, our group is told about the nineteenth century construction of the port and its revival as a result of foreign investment. There’s time for photos and then we push through the Sunday crowds to ride on towards the ecological reserve. I linger towards the back of our pack to practice some Spanish with the guide bringing up the rear. Having just heard that the neglected grassy plot of land in front of me is one of many spaces that had been cleared out for a bridge-to-nowhere type project commissioned by the dictatorship, we begin to talk history and politics.

Photo by Stephanie Santana

The conversation continues as we ride through, not around, some of the rougher spots in La Boca. I’m impressed that the guides take us on a route that lets us see some of the grit and poverty that lies beyond the explosion of colour and feigned elegance of Caminito. When we all sit down to chat and enjoy mate and alfajores, I get the feeling that our guides genuinely like giving the bike tours. They seem interested in imparting to us the reality of Buenos Aires and the subtleties that have shaped the city. In any tourist type situation there’s an often uncomfortable dynamic at play, but here I feel treated like an equal with my guides. This is something in itself that makes the experience more memorable than similar other activities in which I’ve taken part.

Urban Biking Tours include Bike, helmet, tour guide, mate, alfajores, a bottle of water, and traveller’s insurance for the duration of the tour. Private bike tours of the city of Buenos Aires during the day are offered for US$ 70, at night US$90 and of Tigre for US$162. Tours can be booked, and paid for via PayPal and some major credit cards online.

For more information about Urban Biking call 4568 4321, e-mail info@urbanbiking.com, or visit the website: http://en.urbanbiking.com