The alluring term milonga is used to describe an event where people come together to dance tango. This sexy, sultry dance remains one of Argentina’s defining traditions, and with Buenos Aires holding fort as tango capital of the world, many see it as the soul of the city.
Influenced by a wave of European and African immigrants, tango was formed at the end of the 19th century and developed mainly within working class communities, who found refuge in its steps. Originally a popular means of passing the time, men would commonly dance with one another outside brothels whilst waiting for their turn. In the past 20 years, it has regained much of its popularity, with an array of fashionable milongas to choose from on any night of the week.
According to one dancer I met, “you can’t dance the tango badly, you can only move badly.” So, before you tie up your tango shoes and move badly, here are some tips on where you can go to dance or simply enjoy watching some of the city’s most authentic tango.
La Glorieta (Photo: Beatrice Murch)
1. La Glorieta
A traditional, quintessential milonga; I felt like this was the ‘true’ Argentina, where locals come to dance real tango.
Located in Belgrano’s beautiful landscaped park, I watched the dancers arrive and assemble under the same picturesque, open-air gazebo as orchestras and political groups have historically gathered under. As they change in to their tango shoes, I notice jeans are rare and elegance is a standard etiquette.
When they’re ready to begin, I witness the famous ‘tango invitation’, where the eyes do the talking and a man will stare intently at a woman before asking her to dance. At this milonga, you can feel the magnetic and compelling energy between couples as they dance, even though they may have been strangers to one another only moments before.
For many, La Glorieta isn’t merely a way to pass a few hours; it’s a way of life for a whole community of dancers, many of whom go to several dances a week. The gazebo fits a surprising 200 people, and at weekends, you’ll find it full. Whilst there are classes available, this particular milonga is better for those with a bit more experience, since the dancers here are serious!
But if you already have the basics, head to La Glorieta and get practising- if for nothing else than to talk to friendly, tango loving locals and admire their dancing.
Free entry, Saturdays and Sundays 7-11pm. Classes cost $20 and start before the dance at 5pm. For more information, click here.
La Catedral (Photo: Karine Lambin)
2. La Catedral
According to the doorman at La Catedral, this is Argentina’s, and therefore the world’s, most famous milonga.
Housed in a building that dates back to 1880 and which from the outside is unassuming, you can’t help but be hit by the wow factor of La Catedral’s dancehall. Impressive, charming and atmospheric all in one; recycled furniture fills the room and a huge heart–shaped sculpture hangs from the ceiling. Candle lit tables and dim lighting add to the already mysterious mood of this old warehouse.
The activity is non-stop. After the classes there’s a free milonga, followed by a 1am show. Nevertheless, you won’t be alone if you’d rather sit back and enjoy the quirky location; there’s a large bar area, which also serves food and the sociable atmosphere makes meeting people a certainty.
More accessible than most, La Catedral is tailored for beginners and intermediates. Tuesdays is the most popular day to go when the dancehall is packed.
Everyday from 9pm onwards. Entry costs $20 or $25 including a class. For more information click here.
Tango in San Telmo (Photo: Montecruz Foto)
3. La Milonga del Indio
What better place to dance tango than the place it first emerged?
San Telmo’s Sunday market is a ‘must do’ in Buenos Aires; full of street performers, antiques and many other quirky discoveries, Plaza Dorrego definitely draws crowds. But as dusk falls and the stalls are being dismantled, the sound of drumming is replaced with the songs of Carlos Gardel, and new crowds gather for something entirely different.
The open-air location, beneath trees adorned with coloured lighting, is rather romantic; and surrounded by classic, timeless cafes, you’re spoilt for choice picking somewhere to enjoy a post tango beverage. Indio Milonga attracts many young travellers keen to learn from the locals, so it’s a good place to practise if you’re feeling rusty or just want to try out your steps.
As well as tango, alternative music and folklore is also played, but be prepared - when the organiser orders ‘a bailar’ (dance!), the crowd instantly transforms in to enthusiastic tango dancers.
Free entry, Sundays at 7pm. For more information, click here.
La Viruta (Photo: Beatrice Murch)
4. La Viruta
If La Viruta’s stark dancehall and coloured lighting reminds you too much at first of high school dances and runs the risk of appearing too commercial, it’s definitely worth sticking around to settle in.
Without wanting to limit themselves La Viruta offers classes in rock, salsa and tango, and as well as the typical after-class milonga, also hosts a show on certain days.
Perfect for beginners, their tagline boasts ‘you’ll enter walking and you’ll leave dancing’. And true to their promise, because it’s always busy you’ll feel less self-conscious if like me, your dance moves are more primitive than professional.
If La Viruta’s overflowing popularity appears a little more claustrophobic then classy, its distinguishing factor is how sociable it is. Pedro Soria, a frequent dancer, told me, “people come here to dance tango, but also to meet people, maybe as a dance partner, a relationship or simply a lover.”
In true Argentine fashion, the milonga continues in full swing until 5:30am, and as the surrounding venues close their doors, people head here for a concluding dance.
Every day except Monday. Entry costs $29 and $25 on Tuesdays. For more information click here.
Queer Tango in San Telmo
5. Queer Tango
The music from Queer Tango lures you in from the historic, cobbled streets of San Telmo.
As the name suggests, it’s no surprise to see dancers of the same sex here. While some are partners, others simply want to learn the role of the opposite sex in the dance. Traditionally in tango it’s the man leading the woman, but putting gender aside, it’s easy to see who has the female role since the female often dances with eyes closed, allowing themselves to be led by their partner.
A night at Queer Tango boasts a regular mix of locals and foreigners, and its casual location is definitely inviting for mastering the basics. Although the hall has a slight school theatre feel, it offers a light and jovial atmosphere in which to drink a beer and maybe eat an empanada or two whilst spectating tango with a twist.
The idea behind the night, which began in 2007, was to host an event where no presumptions are made, and where you can dance whichever role you desire in a relaxed setting. Mariano DoCampo, tango teacher and organiser explains its success, ”Queer Tango is important for the gay community, no-one asks any questions and people can enjoy dancing tango with their partners.”
In a city that’s home to an extensive gay community and an exciting destination for many more, we can’t see Queer Tango’s attraction fading any time soon.
Every Tuesday. Entry costs $25 with classes starting at 8:30pm and a milonga from 10pm-2am. For more information click here.
