Peru Beach in Acassuso

If the name Peru Beach strikes you as a place unlikely to exist so close to the city of Buenos Aires, you might be surprised to learn about Peru Beach Sporting Club, a water sports mecca that quietly flourishes on the banks of the River Plate in Zona Norte.

Combining “sports and fun with a solid service infrastructure”, the club was set up over 20 years ago and has since firmly established itself as a favourite destination for infrequent day-trippers and regular sportsmen alike. But occupying a slice of murky riverbank starting 300m from the water’s edge and extending 100m out across it, don’t come expecting to find white sand, rock-pools and surf.

Two ways of getting there offer either the more scenic or the non-scenic route. The non-scenic route starts from Retiro station, where you simply hop on a train heading towards Tigre. Trains run regularly, every ten minutes, and a return ticket costs a hardly unreasonable sum of $2. After about half an hour, you reach a stop called Acassuso, and from there it’s a 15 to 20 minute walk straight down Peru street to “the beach”.

The more scenic route requires taking either a bus or a train to connect with the Tren de la Costa, which leaves from Maipú station on the outskirts of the city. Tickets are slightly more expensive at $32 return but it’s worth it for the view of the water and, most importantly, the fact that the train drops you at Barrancas station, right next door to the complex.

Admittedly, it’s not the simplest of journeys, and the logistics of taking a family there on a hot summer’s day could make the experience taxing to say the least, but once there you’ll find it worthy of the effort.

The wide range of facilities onsite includes a gym, several Astroturf football pitches, hard tennis courts and a covered roller hockey pitch, and although it’s a club, there’s no membership fees and pitches can be rented by the hour making it an attractive option for casual visitors.

A skate school offers lessons in a custom-built skate park for $60 per hour including the use of a helmet and board, but if you already know your stuff, the park opens on weekends from 1pm to 5pm and passes cost $20. Adjacent to the school sits an impressive climbing wall that spans 10m across and stands 20m tall. With over 70 possible routes to the top, is advertised as the country’s most important, but for many, the main pull of Peru Beach is being out on the water.

Windsurfing Lessons at Peru Beach

On a recent Thursday, a good number of people, aged between 14 and 40, were out on the water windsurfing and kite surfing solo or under the guidance of expert instructors. A popular activity even in miserable rainy weather, you can take five-hour windsurfing courses in groups of up to four people, or eight-hour kite surfing courses alone or in a pair. The prices for windsurfing decrease from $500 for an individual, to $400 each for two people, $350 each for three, to as little as $300 each for four, making it an ideal group activity, whereas you can expect to pay as much as $1600 for a private kite surfing course, dropping to $1100 each if you can convince a friend.

Anyone keen to explore the banks of the river under their own steam can choose to hire kayaks at a cost of $50 per hour for a single, or $70 per hour for a double. But don’t underestimate the popularity of these more laid-back activities. Plenty of people take to the water while their friends or family are out chasing an adrenaline rush, so Leandro, a windsurfer and resident instructor at the school, advises booking in advance when the weather is good.

You’ll find the food limited but reasonably priced, and with a menu mainly consisting of standard bar snacks like salads, sandwiches and milanesas, as well as ice creams and smoothies, you can eat there for about $35. The bar offers a selection of cocktails that can be enjoyed from a deck chair on a warm summer evening, or simply sat on the grass overlooking the water.

The atmosphere, part bar/part café/part viewing platform, was relaxed and easy on a rainy day with the indoor seating areas providing welcome shelter from the cold. True to their promise, the service was also good and the staff friendly.

Whilst Peru Beach wasn’t specifically designed with families and young children in mind, it certainly fares well with them. But if you’re going in search of a typical seaside experience you’ll be disappointed for several reasons. Firstly, despite calling itself a “beach”, you won’t find yourself by the sea, secondly there’s no sand, and lastly you can’t swim.

Expectations aside, that’s not the kind of experience Peru Beach caters for. Very much an oasis of extreme sports in a place that would otherwise be anything but extreme, something among the range of activities on offer is enough to set even the most hardened of adrenaline junkies’ hearts racing. And for those more inclined to spectate than join in, it’s also a peaceful place to spend an afternoon free from the hustle and bustle of the city: cocktail in one hand, book in another.

Photo by Kate Stanworth

San Juan province is often overlooked on the traveller’s map in favour of its more famous neighbour, Mendoza.

But if it wasn’t for this province’s capital, the entire course of Argentine history may have been changed.

San Juan capital suffered a major earthquake in January 1944, measuring 8.5 on the Richter scale, flattening the city and leaving some 10,000 dead.

Juan Domingo Perón, recently made head of the Department of Labour, threw himself into relief efforts. This brought him to national prominence and led to a chance encounter with the young Eva Duarte, better known as Evita, at a benefit concert in Luna Park, Buenos Aires.

They were married a year later and this was soon followed by the birth of Peronism, their brand of politics which would dominate Argentina from then on.

The city today is a quiet provincial capital where you can hear a pin drop during siesta. Originally founded in 1562 during an expedition from Santiago de Chile, the city has suffered turbulent history, from being washed away in floods in 1594 to several earthquakes and attacks.

Upon arrival, they city’s legacy hits you and the lack of colonial architecture – or any architecture of note – is striking. Perhaps the only feature is the 53m clock-tower on the main square.

Standing next to the modern (too modern for some tastes) cathedral, the views from the top afford stunning views beyond the low-rise city to the surrounding sierra and horizon.

Beyond said horizon and a little way further – 200km northwest to be precise – lies Rodeo, one of the province’s true finds.

When we headed for our off the beaten track adventure, the last thing I expected was to find myself sitting next to a reservoir in the altiplano, chatting to surfers from around the world.

Photo by Kate Stanworth

Off the regular backpacker’s map Rodeo may be, but any windsurfer worth his wetsuit will have heard of it.

The one-road town was suffering a declining population until recently, but Dique Cuesta de Vienta, a new reservoir, changed things somewhat.

Originally constructed as part of a dam project, the reservoir led to the flooding of Bajo Colola, a small agricultural hamlet in the valley basin.

In the mid-90s the residents were relocated to higher ground, only for technical problems to mean the dam never worked, leaving hundreds of family homes flooded for little purpose.

Before you roll your eyes incredulously, its not all bad news. The reservoir is home to one of the best windsurfing spots in the world, attracting surfers from all walks of life and boosting the local infrastructure.

It also makes the town’s population a strange combination of local, mostly indigenous, people and eco-friendly sun-kissed surfers. As a result the nightlife options are varied: folkloric peñas or reggae bars.

Buenos Aires-based couple Esteban and Cecilia saw the potential of Rodeo back in 2003 and bought a stunning plot of land, affording views over the reservoir and the mountains beyond with barely a second thought.

Now, nestled on that same spot in amongst the pine trees is Posta Huayra (meaning ‘God of the Wind’ in Quechua), a beautiful hospedaje, which acts as the perfect refuge against the element that is its namesake.

The interior is a haven of handicrafts – the couple worked with local artists to create everything from the furniture to the wall-hangings that decorate the interior.

If you don’t manage to get a room (booking in advance is advisable) I would highly recommend stopping by to eat.

Photo by Kate Stanworth

Once you have eaten your fill at Posta Huayra and danced to enough reggae, or simply feel it’s time to get outta town, I would suggest heading across the north of the province into La Rioja and Parque Nacional Talampaya, or Ischigualastu Provincial Park.

They will tell you at tourist information that there is no way to get across the north of the province, and you have to head back south to San Juan city to cross from west to east. This is not true – the road is not paved which means local transport can not make the trip, but if you can get your hands on a hire car (preferably a 4×4) you can make the spectacular – and very much off the beaten track – trip. Better still, hire Armando, (someone recommended to us by the kind folks at Post Huayra) and have him drive you there.

He knows the region like the back of his hand, and will take you through Quebrada de Huaco, past the old windmill, Molino de Huaco, and through Valle de Huaco towards Santa Clara in La Rioja province, where you can either stay overnight, or carry on to the national parks.

The journey is well worth it – and we did not see another car for hours, indicating just how little known the untouched area of this little-visited province is. Quebrada de Huaco itself was spectacular enough – sheer cliff faces and the rushing river below. Crossing the Quebrada is a twisting, turning road – a 4×4 is highly recommended, but we did see a couple making the journey in a Fiat Uno, indicating anything is possible!

The journey through the quebrada should be taken slowly, as there are photo opportunities at every turn, and even a table mountain perched among the dramatic cliffs of the area.

Crossing through the line of hills, you see the savannah on the other side: Valle de Huaco, stretching almost to the horizon, dotted with giant jagged rocks that look like they’ve fallen into the ground from their titled angle and semi-vertical grain. It could almost be a giant shot-putting or javelin field. As you move further through the savannah, you cross into La Rioja province near to Santa Clara, the town close to the provincial border.

You can stay in Santa Clara overnight, but it seemed there was little to do in the sleepy town, so we pushed on towards La Rioja’s better-known attraction: Parque Nacional Talampaya (see below).

Heading south, entering back into San Juan province after our little excursion into La Rioja, the landscape became peppered with cacti, and the scenery more dramatic.

Photo by Kate Stanworth

It seems Spanish speakers found our next stop, Parque Provincial Ischigualasto, a bit of a mouthful too, for it is better known as Valle de la Luna (Valley of the Moon), perhaps a more fitting name. A World Heritage Site, it can be visited in a day as part of a tour, perhaps from San Agustín de Valle Fértil. It is quite easy, if using San Agustín as a base, to visit both Talampaya and Ischigualasto on the same day, although by the time we had made the trip from Rodeo, I was glad to visit just one park, as I had started to feel as if my senses could not handle any more dramatic landscape.

The park is dotted with dinosaur remains, and tours start with an interesting talk by the guides on the fossils discovered, how the palaeontologists date them, how they work out the causes of death etc. The park is unique as all stages of the 45-million-year Triassic period are represented in the rocks. Dinosaurs really aren’t my thing, but armed with such knowledge I felt I got much more out of the already impressive tour of the valley.

Over the brow of the hill where the museum is based, the 150 square km park stretches out before you, and maybe my imagination ran away with me, but I felt I could almost see the dinosaurs that used to roam the region wandering around amongst the bizarre rock formations and shrubbery.

Photo by Kate Stanworth

To do the tour you need a vehicle – you can either hire a car or arrange a tour from San Agustín (or even San Juan city itself, although prepare for leaving before dawn and getting back after dark). The park guide will catch a ride with someone on the tour, and you drive through the valley, stopping at various points of interest, and having them explained to you. The whole thing takes a couple of hours, and if doing both Parque Nacional Talampaya and Ischigualasto in one day, it is advisable to head to Talampaya first, where the morning sun lights up the red rocks and illuminates the valley, and see Ischigualasto in the afternoon when it is at its most impressive.

Amongst tour’s highlights are El Hongo (the mushroom, see page 11), an impressive rock set off against the red sandstone cliffs behind and Cancha de Bolas (Ball Court), an area dotted with perfectly round cannon-ball-type stones.

After so many visual delights, a nice relax in San Agustín seems to be the best bet, or you could ask Armando to take you all the way back to San Juan city. He will most likely even let you have a sleep in the car on the way there.

By Kristie Robinson

Posta Huayra: Visit www.postahuayra.com.ar for more information.

Parque Provincial Ischigualasto: entrance allowed 8am-4pm daily. Entrance starts at $10, and all trips into the valley have to be accompanied by one of the park guards. It is possible to camp by the visitor’s centre, but San Agustín is probably a better bet. San Agustín is located 100km south of the park. For more information please visit www.ischigualasto.org

Photo courtesy of Secretaria de Turismo

Parque Nacional Talampaya

Just 93km away from Valle de la Luna, is Parque Nacional Talampaya, and although many people choose to take to the sandy roads on board a 4×4, I decided to join a group of mountain bikers and get in direct contact with the stunning natural beauty. To my surprise, I survived the challenge well enough to tell the story.

I had heard about it. The whole idea of feeling invincible, of being unbeatable, but I had never experienced it myself.

I often wondered why mankind insists on putting itself through hell (or as close as it gets to it) under the guise of sporting endeavour. Whenever I would see someone trying to climb the highest mountain, or aiming to swim across the widest river I would ask myself the simple question: Why? What is that we are trying to prove in the name of adrenaline?

Of course, I didn’t join this world with the gift of coordination, and the closest I’ve ever been to sports is wearing ‘leggings’ during the 1990s as I somehow got it into my head the twisted notion they were sort of sexy.

Having said that, you must imagine that when I saw the mountain bike waiting for me to get on to it to go all over the desert I could only think of the two most rational words I could come across: no way.

Blame it on the full moon, or on the fact I had decided to go with the flow on that trip, but I did jump on that bike in the end.

As I struggled on the first 20 minutes to overcome heat – it was 48 degrees in La Rioja – as well as the difficulties the land presented, I asked myself how I was suppose to survive the remaining four hours. The fact that I was the only one from a group of six people that was about to faint was embarrassing enough to keep me going, plus the constant cheering from our guide Diego who had agreed to do the trip with us although he had done it with two groups that day gave me the extra energy I needed.

By the first stop, the rupestrian paintings made me forget all about tiredness.

I won’t even attempt to describe what I saw, as any words I could find, even in a stroke of literary genius, wouldn’t even come close to the canyon’s beauty. I will, however, share with you an image that I am almost certain will remain in me forever.

I will leave you with the memory of the sunset behind my back hitting the stone walls, turning it all bright red, in contrast with the occasional green of a few trees that looked like they had mistaken their place to grow. As for the lesson: I learnt that for once in a lifetime I could also be invincible. And in the name of adrenaline or not, it was well worth it.

By María Agustina Izurieta

Parque Nacional Talampaya: Located 93km north of Ischigualasto, it is possible to visit the park on your own, but you need a 4×4. Entrance starts at $35 and it is best to put aside around four hours to get around the park. For more information please visit www.talampaya.com